Any battery pack you buy on this forum will be bypassed as buying a high discharge BMS is expensive, it takes up space and is mostly pointless.
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It’s pretty straightforward. The two main BMS layouts look like one of these:
All that really matters is that you’ve got the big blue wire coming from the battery, going into the B- port, then a bib black wire coming out from P- and going into the rest of the power system.
To bypass the BMS, you either need to bridge between P- and B- (with a comparably beefy wire), or just disconnect the wire from P- and connect that wire onto B- (so there are two wires going to B- and no wires going to P-).
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Ok, thanks guys! You made this seem a little less scary now 
So this means that as long as I buy a battery pack on this forum, I don’t really have to worry about it? I just have to make sure the battery builder is bypassing the BMS and adding a fuse/ fuseholder on the charge port?
I see some people put “lights” in their wiring diagram, what’s that for?
I’d assume for installing a buck/boost converter to allow for bling bling hardware. I have my front light connected directly to the battery
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i don’t think any battery builder here would build a bms discharge pack by default unless the buyer request that specifically 
u r good on that part
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It’s for lights or accessories on the board. You can just omit that if you’re not using them. Typically a buck converter would connect here, and it would drive the lights.
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Acetone seems to work for me. Nail polish remover or carb/choke cleaner have enough of it to do the job. Usually throw the nuts, bolts and washers in a metal container and let it sit for a while in solution before rinsing it a few times and then letting it dry. (ceramic or glass works too, just be careful with plastic because some dissolve in acetone)
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Saw this part of this video in the Videos No Words thread:
Guy makes a street board with Trampa trucks.
He compares the wiggliness of the Trampas to DKP and RKP trucks.
Obviously since anything with a kingpin can rotate in more than one axis they are gonna be wigglier.
So my questions are:
What are the drawbacks of these kinds of trucks?
One I see is that since they are too wide to drop through your board is going to be a lot taller which I don’t like.
Also if you don’t have a board with raised ends to get the angle you’re going to have to add triangle risers (I’m assuming these exist) so that would make it taller still.
Any other disadvantages for a street board?
Well first off, it’s going to be heavy as fuck and big as shit, so RIP you if you’re trying to walk around in a grocery/convenience/fast_food store or something carrying that. Maybe good for toy, but not so much as a commuting tool.
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My Demon is already super heavy so it’s already RIP for that. 
I’m trying to revive my Boosted for that use case for exactly this reason.
Use the Demon for long weekend rips and the Boosted for going to the store.
So number one is weight, number 2 is height. Any other reason to avoid?
Theoretical question about HFI at low battery voltage. To be more specific about the HFI Start Voltage parameter.
Let’s say I have:
- 12s battery and my cells are down to 3.2v (12 x 3.2 = 38.4v)
- 2 motors and 2 motor controllers connected by CAN
- HFI Start Voltage set to 20v in both motor controllers (my brain tells me 20v + 20v = 40v but my battery only has 38.4v left)
Would HFI still work as expected in such conditions?
I’m thinking now I chop up this riser from off the front trucks on my boosted and use the pieces as a riser on the top side for the dkp dropthroughs at the back to even out the board height.
Thank you! Another question. How should I charge them? I have a 42v 5 amp charger. Can I use that charger and charge both batteries from one charging port while they are both still connected?
Yes, because each motor has the full 38.4V available to it.
If a toy is what you want, those might work very well for that.
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Is there a way to connect a PWM PC fan to the ESC so that the speed increases depending on the heat? I’m not looking to power the fan via the ESC of course.
Yep! Each battery will just charge twice as slow. At the end of the charge cycle one BMS might turn off before the other, so I would be wary of using a charger that exceeds any of the individual BMS’s charge ratings. If it’s within the limits both, you should be safe!
Okay! Thank You clarifying
I’d recommend charging one at a time. You don’t want to overheat the charger. Or buy another charger like I did.