with 2cm currently they just scrape at full lean
with 1 inch it should clear fine
dont mind about look as i will sand and paint them
if you cna pick up some spare whenever you have the time it would be super kind of you
Making new truck holes actually gave me enough clearance to put the enclosure below it.
Thank goodness.
If my 1p pack cannot have a regen current of under -4A, how the hell does the SR boosted exist?
Standard range boosted battery? It maxes out 50Amps and has a max of 10amp charge rate. It’s an A123 26650 lifepo04 battery.
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oh wow I thought it was liion.
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Everyone did at first. Until they opened the board.
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is the extended range one also lifepo4?
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That one I heard is LG lithium battery.
Edit: LG HG2 10s3p apparently
Your 1P pack can have a regen setting at any level you want. 
You just have to decide where your performance vs safety threshold is.
I must, MUST, err on the side of caution for any safety-related advice and try to stick within the ratings. I don’t know where the cells were purchased, what their condition was when purchased, how they will be stored or charged, and how quickly they might age for the conditions they are subjected to by any particular person.
This means I have to assume the worst, every time.
Frustrating? Hell yes. But it’s got to be done this way. Choose the regen level you feel comfortable using based on the feedback you get. The odds of anything bad happening are low but as the cells age they shouldn’t be abused as much.
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Just a side note…
I know that “Li-Ion” is commonly used for only certain cell chemistries but LiPo and LiFePO4 are Li-Ion too.
All of them use the same method of shuttling lithium ions back and forth between a form of carbon (graphite typically) on the negative side and a metal oxide powder on the positive side. For the different chemistries the metal oxide changes but the way all these cells work is otherwise the same.
Sure, there can be a different choice of plastic insulator, a liquid or gel between the two sides of the battery, or a different way of putting all the layers together (spiral roll or flat), but where it counts they are all Li-Ion cells.
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These are Samsung 30Q that I got in an mboards pack. I put 15 cycles on the pack, and found 6s2p to be shit, so I had artem reconfigure it into a 12s1p incase I needed to use it as a range extender for my upcoming board. In the mean time, I decided to throw it into this little thing as I had some spare parts from a broken prebuilt. The cells have at most 25 cycles
I’m only using this board for 2 weeks, so as long as -10A of regen won’t kill me its fine.
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Choose a regen level you are comfortable with.
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I think it’s due to how it’s made that people would assume it’s different. But yes, they’re all lithium cells.
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Super Noob question.
Can you swap a BMS out?
Let’s say the battery is already built. Freshly built. What if I wanted to change the BMS out by unplugging the balance leads and then unplugging the battery from BMS (assuming it’s been connected via XT90 and then plugging the new BMS Xt90 in to the battery and then plugging in the Balance leads.
Is this do-able/safe/recommended
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Yes you can. I did it on mine and it was pre-built. But, I would recommend bypassing the bms so it’s set for charge only. Less problems.
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Thank you
The only way it should be done 
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Absolutely no issues doing this. Your BMS is just a load on your battery; it might as well be the VESC, your battery doesn’t know the difference. The only safety concern I see is if it was directly wired and you snip the lines - which is totally fine to do, just don’t cut the power and ground in the same snip (short).
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Thank you for the reassurance and more detailed explanation.
I was going to leave the soldered balance leads on the physical packs just unplug the balance lead port from the BMS and plug that into the new BMS.
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just never cut wires at the same time, always one by one and insulate them right after u cut them
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