Use 'em. Fuck Imperial hardware. On my first few builds, the only imperial stuff were axle and kingpin bolts. Now that I am on Hypertrucks, I am 100% metric. Its so nice.
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10-32 x 2" button head socket cap screws, grade 8 alloy steel
For example, fastenere.com part number 842176122908 (2") or 842176122885 (2.5")
and the nuts you need 10-32 nylock nuts like part 842176193908
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Awesome guys, thanks.
How much axle length do TB110s need? (for just the wheel) is it the standard size? (correct me if im wrong, but i think this is 24mm?)
Standard size is 35mm
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Are there any issues with eboard-shop (eBay seller)'s 90mm hardware kits?
Also, sorry, second question - is it necessary to use more “exotic” filaments like nylon and ASA when 3D printing an enclosure, or would ABS + fiberglass coating work well enough?
How many xt90s have you guys blown?
- 0
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6
- 7
- 8
- 9
- 10+
0 voters
The xt90s that blew, were they the key or the mounted one?
- Key female (xt90s)
- Key male (xt90)
0 voters
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IMO, if you’re going to fiberglass it, you should be fine with whatever, because the fiberglass is going to provide a lot of the structural strength.
That said, for larger enclosures, 3d printing is a really inefficient way to go about it. 3d printing is much more suited to smaller, more complex parts, especially ones with features that would make them difficult or impossible to manufacture more conventionally.
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I did the dumb thing and mounted the female part (the one with the resistor) in the enclosure, which meant that I had to open it up to replace it when I blew the resistor.
Always have the removable side be female!
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second this, and for more reasons than that too
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I’ve got a decent amount of CAD skills and access to some really nice printers through my uni, so I figured I’d just take advantage of it.
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That’s fair. If you’ve got the equipment go for it, but just beware of the limitations of the technology: weakness in Z can really bite you in the ass, especially since esk8 hardware sees a LOT of impact and vibration.
does anyone have a dxf file for MTB mounting holes? can’t find it anywhere!!!
@Haeroboards @Phil maybe?
Looking for these hole measurements
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Anyone try and connect a Hoyt St Puck and when running the input wizard, nothing happens when I throttle minimum to maximum and centre?
Can’t get it to work when previously I had no issues. Unless I wired it wrong recently. Black ground, Red 5v correct yes? The reciever lights up. And I did the 3 button hold when turning it on to pair with reciever.
Is “RT APP” turned on, on the right side?
Don’t know. I’ll look and report back. EDIT: It wasn’t but I turned it on and tried and got nothing still. For some reason all the values jump to 1.19 before I move the throttle??
Also, does this sound normal:
I’m still not 100% if this motor stuffed my Mini FOC plus ESC or if it’s fine. Worried about plugging it in to my DV6 to test in case it stuffs that ESC.
At the worst that sounds like a tiny bit of debris rubbing between the can and the stator. Nothing that would have a chance to damage the ESC like a shorted winding would.
Honestly it sounds fine, or at least good enough that I probably wouldn’t bother with a teardown and inspection.
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