Imma defer that question to someone else since I’ve only run them in Super Single
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Hi, i have a strange problem. When i set duty cycle current limit start to 85%, i spin the motors to max speed and the CAN side will almost get to top speed but then slowly drop in speed. I also hear this clicking noise like if the motors were being limited. When i set duty cycle current limit start to default (100%), none of these weird issues happen, but i have been running on 85% for a couple weeks now and problems only started yesterday when i tried out current mode instead of current smart reverse and increased battery regen from 10a to 12a each side. Does anyone have an idea what can be causing this?
Are the flipsky motors any better now?
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from what i see around here, many people are ok with the one battle hardened version
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How can i tell if its the battle hardened version. I noticed that their 6374 motor is the same price as tb’s 6355
The battle hardened ones have the squared off can (not rounded on the end) and has a blue dot near the end of the can.
edit: These
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Oh okay perfect thanks. I thought about getting flipsky before but I heard the motors were built the best
How should I connect for example flipsky vx1 to a 2x trampa hd60 VESCs for a 4wd board using uart?
Or this is only doable using y splitter with ppm?
I’m routing out a wire channel in a kaly deck so I can get the davega wires to my rear top mount enclosure. What is best to fill the channel with afterwards? I’ve searched and found epoxy, silicone, and tape or super glue… thing is it won’t be covered by grip tape completely plus I have a center top mount battery box as well. So I’m just doing a long channel on the top of the board from front to back.
Will this method work with 10 AWG on xt60 as well?
XT60 connectors have the same size pins as MR60 connectors, just two instead of three.
That means that 12AWG will fit fine, but 10 will probably be a bit oversize.
10AWG fits great in XT90 connectors, and 8AWG can be made to fit.
My preferred method is to tin the end of the wire before stripping it: dab just a little bit of flux on the exposed end, then melt some solder on your iron and smoosh that hot solder blob down onto the fluxed end for a few seconds, till it heats up and soaks in.
(Keep in mind, this ONLY works on silicone wire. If you try it with other lesser insulation, it will not end well.)
Then you can let it cool off for a minute, and strip it as normal. The solder will keep all the strands bunched tightly together, as tightly as they were while the insulation was still on. That’ll give you the
best possible fit into a connector.
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Yes, but barely. Try to squeeze the strands into a LIGHT oval before tinning them, not a perfect circle.
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10AWG is a bit oversize, I just checked. But with the oval I bet it’ll work.
It’s only a tiny bit too large.
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I do use xt60e-m as a charge port on 2 boards, no sparks with Cycle Satiator
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You should hit up you real sk8 bro bud jaypo for some of that quality enertion I mean massivestator support…
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I just received some new caliber 2 trucks, evolve wheels and a evolve pulley, when I tried to fit a wheel on the truck with the pulley attached I realised that the Axle from the truck is to short… fuck.
What are my options now, do I need new trucks with longer axles or are there pulleys that are thinner than those evolve pulleys?
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Does anyone know what the max cable you can use for an xt90 antispark connector is im hoping to use 8AWG
Yes u will need longer axle truck, or use bolt on pulley
Isn’t the evolve pulley for a stepped down axle? It was a while ago that I was using those, but thats the memory I have in my head…
This will do I think
Thanks guys! I will try it with the bolt on pulley.