A damn menace that guy is!
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What’s weird is that the charge port is giving me 0.0V.
I took it apart a bit and measured across the 2 larger pins and still 0.0V 
Charger is good at least
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BMS broke?
A few thick coats of hairspray to form a consistent plastic layer over a base of multiple car wax applications (wax on wax off 
) is a good option I reckon.
I have done some test samples with hairspray as a release layer.
PVA which is normally used over wax is basically a liquid plastic. That washes off in soapy water. Need a sprayer really for a smooth application. Hairspray is similar and easy / cheap option.
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Trying to crack my way in there carefully. They glued the sucker shut and I had to run errands but we will see.
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interesting
Wonders whether should buy some hairspray. Haven’t had any since like 1988
Man, 12104 posts in this thread, kinda long to dig up.
I have a genuine noob question, anyone who have Metr or any other telemetry, how much amps does braking push back into battery, not talking about braking -120 amps in settings etc, talking about actual telemetry records showing x amps has been pushed back via braking.
I have a build thread going and was told not to put fuses in between battery and vesc of which I obligated for now cos I’m still learning bits here and there.
I understand that if the fuse blows out, motor still spinning is generating electricity and it has no where to go and thus the vesc gets fried.
I have seen some posts including Eboost’s where the board went up in flames, imo the whole board up in flames is more expensive than just one vesc and also could be the house or apartment going up in flames.
If I have two 60 amp fuses, one for each vesc, it should mean I have a total of 120 combined amps braking ability (60 per motor) before the fuses blows out.
Also isnt a battery short not that different to motor short cos the effect still causes runaway thermal effect due to a short being a short being a short?
Well not exactly… A battery short is not really like a motor short, mainly because of the potential damage from either short. Battery shorts can be more catastrophic than shorts happening post-ESC.
A VESC burning out might be an expensive fix, but it’s not as likely to set your whole board on fire like an internal battery pack short.
As for fuses, I don’t personally put them between my ESC and battery either. Mainly because I’d rather risk destruction of my battery and ESC than lose brakes in NYC. Traffic kills.
As for current figures, I generally set my stuff conservatively, so I’m not an example on the high end.
Keep in mind, battery and motor amps are very different and operate differently.
My current board has a limit of 40/-30 for battery current, and 55/-55 for motor current.
Highest figure I’ve seen during braking was 32 battery amps, 55 motor.
So, your settings are the first and likely most important protection from overloading your hardware.
If you are using automotive fuses, they’re likely slow blow fuses and will likely blow much much later than you think. It’s important to look up the exact current and burn time of the fuse you intend to use, so your operation around it is realistic and not just an assumption of safety.
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Okay, a few things to unpack here.
First, there’s an important distinction to be made between “battery amps” and “motor amps”.
Battery amps are the DC current that comes from the battery and goes into the ESCs.
Motor amps are the three-phase alternating current that comes out of the ESCs and goes to the motors.
These can be drastically different: Depending on the speed and load, the motor current can be anywhere from 1:1 with the battery current, or ten or more times higher. It’s common to have your motor current limits set much higher: 40 battery amps and 80 motor amps is a normal set of numbers to run across.
In general, the “motor max” and “motor min” current limit settings mostly affect the behavior of the board at low speeds, like accelerating from a stop, or slowing down to a stop.
The battery max and battery min settings have more effect on the high-speed performance, such as how fast you hit top speed, and how good the brakes are while you’re going fast.
If you set your motor min too aggressively, when you 're slowing down, the brakes will get sharply stronger as you reach lower speeds, and can definitely cause a dismount if you’re not expecting it.
The battery min setting, on the other hand, will affect how the brakes are when you’re cruising faster, and if you set that too high, it can be tricky to feather the brakes so you don’t go flying.
If the battery min is too low, on the other hand, your brakes at speed will be horribly weak.
Another thing is that under almost all circumstances and use cases, the regeneration current (the energy pumped back into the battery from the motor through the ESC) is much less than the maximum current used for acceleration. This is due to several things:
First, when you set the regen current really high, the brakes can easily be strong enough to lock the wheels up and/or send you flying headfirst off the board as it stops and you don’t.
Second, the batteries we use generally don’t like to be charged as fast as they can be discharged, and doing so anyway can significantly hurt their lifespan.
With this in mind, your question about fuses really shouldn’t be aimed towards braking current, but rather towards acceleration current. You’re much more likely to blow a fuse by mashing the gas pedal than the brakes.
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im setting up my xenith and i try to set my absolute max current lower to like 200 and it says “the following parameters were truncated because they were beyond the hardware limits: absolute maximum current.” is this normal or nah?
Don’t mess with the absolute max setting, it’s what it is as a safety precaution.
but default was 400, that right?
Yes, just leave it at default.
Under normal operation the absolute max value doesn’t affect anything.
Lowering it can actually cause more problems, by making the ESC more likely to throw errors.
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oh ok thanks
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Im aware that automotive fuses are slow blow 
Better that way.
That is the answer I was looking for 
Thanks to both of you for your replies. I will go no fuse and only charger port fuse. Cheers!
P.s. is there a way to do multi replies in a single post or is multi-quotes the only way to do multi?
Do you guys use that green goo tire sealant in your pneumatics?
So I’m committed to my first build. It will be a 12s4p 6374 190kV Landyachtz Evo with eboosted enclosure. Zenith VESC, Smart BMS. Boardnamics M1 Gear Drive 2.78. Likely run loop key. Parts have started arriving.
What I haven’t worked out is how I’m going to charge. I am thinking LP16 port. Can I just buy a 50.4V charger and solder on a the male LP16 plug?
Is there a place I can source the charger? I did try and search the forum but had no success most likely because of the operator. My apologies.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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my friend used this green gunk in his tyres after a few punctures. Seemed to work a treat for him.
p