Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Ah shucks…more shiiiet

But maybe some needle nose pliers might work?

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Ah I’ve got some of those :+1:

Auto parts store or tire shop.

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For the metal guys:

Can I spot weld (resistance weld) carbon steel to stainless steel? Will it cause any problems? TIA!

It’s the lid. Kinda shitty but it works if nothing rusted
@Geo_Engineering_FTW

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@b264 thanks a million times
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On their site it says that @3DServisas helical geardrives have angular contact bearings in them to handle the axial loading produced by the helical gears - This seems like a good thing to include because afaik most motors do not come with bearings meant to handle any serious axial loading. Despite this I haven’t seen any other vendors of helical geardrives include this feature… Is this because its not really necessary or some other reason?

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Anybody here running sk8 6374’s with Unity and HFI and have their settings?

Im sure battery plays a role too

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Because it costs money

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Yeah they’re more expensive

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Spend more money to end up selling less replacement parts…
If it works just enough to make the buyer happy and age naturally, no one will mind

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Dumb q:
Assuming geardrives only, what options do i have for mountainboard trucks+drivetrains that can get me around 70km/hr on 8-9 inch wheels?

I do not care one bit for offroad performance, i want 4wd on a big, non-wood deck that can actually climb some curbs

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3d servisas are the best

His 4.75 inch wheels and not sure what tires for curb climbing

Also if you contact him about buying a gear drive + his trucks + his wheels he can give you some insane prices

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Judging by the last time i visited his site, 4 drives would be about half of the entire build cost, including the battery, motor and 4 vescs. And the more affordable ones are plastic.
I forgot to mention that i need them compatible on more generic stuff that i can source in the uk when (not if) stuff breaks.

Edit: yup. A pair with plastic gears and hanger comes at 1200€… before the new uk import chaos, so conservatively i’d say 1500€ for 2 hangers and 4 drives

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He can offer trucks drives and wheels for 600euro or so so prob the full set for 1000euro maybe?

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What are the practical differences between HFI and sensors? First of all, do they offer the same potential torque, and smoothness of control? Secondly, I’ve heard several people recommend HFI in order to remove the point of failure that is hall sensors, but I’ve also heard that HFI is very temperamental, and can be messed up by changes in temperature ect. That being said, what is the common failure mode of each? like will a sensor failing result in the board suddenly reversing directions, while HFI failing will just make the board act as though sensorless? (those are total guesses) If anyone has experience with both these systems id appreciate the insight.

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Hfi is just an attempt to offer life to motors with failed sensors. It is not better than having sensors, it is lacking torque while in the hfi erpm range (startup) and is an absolute pain in the ass to setup. Lastly, on some motors it just does not work. Mine randomly started backwards, either one of them, sometimes both.
Best video that can explain how to set it up is from vedder himself. Expect about an hour at minimum of tuning and accept that it may just not work reliably, or at all.

Also, no, i do not recommend sensorless. It’s 2021, foc is as smooth as ever with sensors

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yea thats kinda the sense i get - thanks for the reply. Also ya I’m definitely not going senseless, that’s one thing i decided a while ago.

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We got a few traditionalists here and they do have their points on reliability, but at the same time i’m yet to break a single sensor on a motor. They’re probably right behind bearings on the list of easy to break things

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