I’ve seen those terms mentioned before when talking about the VESC versions, but ngl idk what they really do.
Do they measure the current coming off of the phase wires to get a better measurement of the current going to the motors? Or they make current sampling smoother or something?
12mm
3-6V
Better, more refined circuit layout, has a current shunt on all three phases instead of just two (this is a big one), different DRV chip/setup for more robustness (YMMV, depends on the exact design),
all around more better. Can usually handle FOC more readily with less chance of problems.
I have the Patriot build deck (Aliexpress MTB deck and enclosure (seahorse case) to start my first DIY build.
I’m cautious because the patriot guide is a couple of years out of date, doesn’t seem to give any new feedback on the switch from Flipsky to Turnigy motors, links through to DIYEboards who I’ve been told to steer clear of and I also want a modern style remote.
Patriot guide can be found by googling Patriot SkateMetrics (can’t include a link)
I’m staggering buying components so aim to buy the battery last. Next step is to get some nice grip tape printed and some sort of design for the bottom of the board so not much pressure on my decision making there.
But i’m now open to completely changing what and where I buy everything else from. Is there any equivalent build guides/component setups I could be pointed in the direction to?
Here’s my needs/capabilities:
Offroad (I have a Wowgo 3 which is fine for smooth street riding right now, this board is to ride on rough surface and novice bike trails so a bit of dirt and uphill/downhill)
Pneumatics with suspension on the trucks (based on above)
Balance range and speed capability (no going on all day treks or entering any races)
I have some basic knowledge of electrics, can happily solder plugs and connectors if no advanced tools needed but otherwise I would be looking to buy components that are majority plug and play (definitely no battery pack building for me and I’m not looking at any advanced configuration for ESC’s etc)
Cost - trying to keep it as close to the $1k mark as possible.
Lastly - i know purchasing an AT board may be an easier option but I also want to get into DIY so seeing this as an opportunity to try it out.
Thanks in advance
@YeetMeat in addition to this stuff, I’d say the DV6 may be more reliabable just on the sense of it not having a power button. I’ve never been an antispark circuit fan, but that’s just me. I always run XT-90s loop keys
Either could be a good option, but I don’t know what kind of current the unity design can actually handle. Within the month(ish?), I’ll be doing a full review on the DV6 though 
look out for that
If you already have the DV6 or TBv6 I don’t think you’ll be gaining much from switching.
So basically, a vesc 6 is just going to be more reliable/consistent than a vesc 4 based esc?
@ShutterShock The power button/roll to start is one of the reasons why I’m considering a xenith rn lol, I’d like to not have to carry an antispark + backup on me all the time. Though obv, reliability is best.
Will do; is it going to be on here?
I don’t have either atm, this is going to be for a future build
Are these the only two parts you have, so far? I dont know anything about them, but list out everything you have and plan to use for this build.
I would check out the DIY Builds category here, otherwise you can probably still use that guide for the broad strokes stuff, since most of our components are cross-compatible (i.e. flipsky and turnigy motors have the same mounting patters, usually).
That’s going to be tight for a MTB, especially if you are spending money on stuff like
Matrix II trucks and Rockstar 2 wheels with T1 tires. @Boardnamics or @ATC mounts.
12s4p to 12s6p P42A battery
BKB Zenith ESC
If you need motors, Torqueboards sells really good ones. Not the cheapest, but the only ones I feel comfortable recommending.
Just gonna hammer on this again, building a decent eMTB for under $1000 USD is going to be really hard. I would suggest picking out a really solid list of parts (or find a build thread you like and copy that) and then work out if/how you can afford that.
At the end of the day, we are trusting our lives to these machines, and there is a LOT of stuff that can go wrong. Cutting corners is a good way to get yourself hurt.
Just my 2 cents, feel free to hit me up for any questions you might have 
are the fake imax balance chargers aweful
need to charge some 3s graphenes
Congrats & Nice logo!
( But i miss the old duck)
of course not, why would u think that. no, definitely use that over the real one, u r saving so much money by doing that
Now that the old duck is gone, I can finally share the secret I have been guarding since my first day on the forum… It was a goose!
nah just want to order one with my hobbyking order and they are only selling fakes atm
not about money rather about ease of ordering everything together
Personally I wouldnt dick about with regards to LiPo charging. Those things are dangerous as fuck, and a bad charger can easily cause a fire.
yep ordered a real one for £35 on ebay
do they accept multiple lipos at once?
My life was a lie, I no longer want these bergs. I only bought them because of your duck.
₍Dᵢ𝒹ₙₜ ₑᵥₑₙ 𝓰ₑₜ ₐ 𝒹ᵤ𝒸ₖ ₛₜᵢ𝒸ₖₑᵣ…
₎
Thanks some great starters here.
The deck is the Maytech electric mountainboard deck, comes with holes predrilled and a horrible lion print design (hence why I am customising). It’s max width is 8.5in and length is around 38in.
Enclosure is the Seahorse SE300 case. Essentially a water and dust tight carry case with foam inserts that is a cheap option for an enclosure to go on top of the deck.
That is it to date, and I’m not expecting to stay under $1k, but I figure I start with that target in mind and it will likely creep up as I keep on justifying spending little bits extra here and there! (If I start with a $2k target I’ll probably do the same thing and end up at 2.5k. Also the grip tape and vinyl are optional extras I’m adding from some Christmas gift money so won’t include that in the total cost.
Lastly, I forgot to mention I am in NZ so it’s often cheaper for me to ship parts from China direct rather than through EU/US suppliers, but that does mean I need to be a bit more careful when it comes to not buying stuff that will hurt me.
Fair enough, not a bad mindset.
That throws off a lot of product recommendations I was going to make haha. Uhhhh. @glyphiks halp this man. Do your dirty auzzy down under handshake and tell him where to get the goods
but solid advice for 