Well no, obviously. Mine was a special case as it had only been used for 30 miles. There was no user error and I provided complete documentation of what happened.
He offered the upgrade, I just wanted the replacement. My point was he was very gracious about it and seeing vendors go the extra mile is nice
makerx is already providing extra bullet connectors and wires adaptors, sure, those things cost very little in a large scale, but that does shows makerx really do think about customers’ need
that’s a +1 in my book
Yeah true haha someone complained about them not providing screws or something a while back?? and I was like, they already provide all the connectors and wires you need that no other company does.
It’s nice that the bullets are included because then I don’t have to use them from my personal stash when I build boards for people. When you buy the Makerx esc you get everything you need pretty much
I wish my Go-Foc didn’t thermal throttle as much as it does but we shall see how the DV6 does. I’ll be doing a full article post about that one when I get it
yea, it was some time ago 
I actually save up all those bullet connectors that makerx providing so i don’t have to restock my 4mm connectors that often.
I would like to see more DV6 reviews as well, planning to retire all my v4 esc by mid-next year
Keep an eye out then. It’s on it’s way here, I estimate 2 weeks to arrival.
I’ll be putting a good few miles on it before commenting on performance though so it will be a while before the full review comes. Maybe I’ll make my first Youtube video about it, who knows. I have the camera gear, the skills, the lighting, and editing software, it’s really just time that has kept me from doing Youtube
please dont get me wrong not saying anything against them
used the dv4 with a bt module and all was good once i used in bldc
i ended up selling the dv4 but you can ask the buyer that both were missing if you want
i dont blame them for wanting me to pay shipping but doesnt stop me from being a bit miffed
That is fair, but if you want to claim that it came with both usb ports disconnected that is a bit outrageous without pictures haha
no didnt come like that just i plugged the wire into my pc and then when i pulled the wire out (gently) the connector came with it. used a different wire on the other plug and same issue
Are 3D printed bearing spacers worth trying? I’m kinda surprised MBS doesn’t have any in its wheels, but the only material I have that can reliably get very close tolerances is my 3D printer, loaded in PLA. I guess the first question would be if spacers are even necessary (all my previous longboards had built ins), and would plastic ones suffice?
Are you talking about the spacer that goes inbetween the bearings inside the wheel or on the axle between the wheel and the truck
Either way, I’d say they’re a temporary solution at best.
Plastic just doesn’t have the same compressive strength or elastic modulus of metal, even something soft like aluminum, and it’ll break down or deform over time due to the stresses.
I’d say radial spacers (to fit a small bearing in an oversized hole) are probably easier because there’s more surface area to spread the load, but that’s just a guess.
Yeah it’s not the greatest idea. I definitely wouldn’t put them inside the wheel, but I’ve been running some 3d printed ones on my front wheels to space out the wheel and they’ve lasted fine on my old board but solid nylon or metal spacers are much better
Yeah they’re the ones between the bearings. I’m not actually sure how much force they take anyways, since the bearings themselves should take the force laterally, and axial forces don’t seem that common. They’re not requirements per se in regular longboards, but it may help somewhat. I saw that Lacroix has some steel ones, but $5 apiece for some 23mm long tubes is a little steep.
It depends on the tolerance/fitup between your wheels and your bearings/spacer.
Ideally you’d want the wheel’s bearing seats to be just a hair wider than the spacer, so when you snug down the nut it preloads the bearings just enough to reduce any noise or wobble, but not enough to significantly add to your rolling resistance (Not quite as big of an issue on esk8 compared to non-e-sk8 where energy is at a premium).
If the spacer is too big, then the wheel can shift on the bearings.
If the spacer is too small, then either you’re preloading to bearings too much (if you tighten the nut all the way), or you have to leave the nut loose to avoid excessive preload, and the spacer does nothing but rattle around and make concerning rattling noises.
If you had an ideal spacer for your given wheels and bearings, you could tighten your wheel nuts as tight as you want (within reason, you don’t want to strip any threads or crack a bearing race), and not affect the preload or rolling resistance at all, because the spacer prevents you from mashing the bearings any closer together.
Obviously if your spacer is plastic, you can definitely crush it with a steel nut, so you have to be careful not to overtighten things, both to avoid excessive preload, and avoid crushing your spacers.
if u r not in a hurry:
And if you don’t care about loose tolerances and possible preload issues.
Less of an issue with plastic wheel cores, but definitely can be a big problem with metal wheel hubs.
honestly i would have no idea, since i’ve been using blue cag / tb110 exclusively 
i did have cloudwheels at one point, but fuck the cracked core and it rattles like crazy with my tbdd adaptor
But then would a plastic spacer be better than nothing at all? It seems like from that description that it’s only useful for tightening down the lock nut, not taking on any sideways forces from the tire.
Also @frame those look like they’re for regular wheels, not for MBS pneumatics spacing and axle sizes.
With plastic wheel hubs/cores, the plastic itself deforms and can help soak up a bit of that extra preload, whereas aluminum hubs won’t, and you’ll end up with crunchy bearings much more easily.
ah, i didn’t know u guys were talking about a different size one, my bad 