Cut the wires to your temperature sensors.
Boom, no more throttling or cutouts.
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id love to how i might ask ? idont want my bored doin shit while i roll down a hill
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There are five small wires going to the motor. Usually red, black, blue, green, yellow, and white. Cut the white wire.
Be aware that if you do this, your motors WILL overheat and be damaged.
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oh fuk ill just set my cut off and start at 120 im sure at 22 it will be fine
Hello kind sirs, my pack seems to have shit itself and dropped to ~1 volt per p group for a total of 11 volts for 10 in a series (switch was left on somehow). Samsung 30q’s. Has anyone successfully revived a pack from that voltage? It’s almost new- maybe like a dozen cycles. Any info is appreciated. TIA
you consider keeping the temperature sensors?
Hi friends, anywhere I can take my board for repair in SF / bay area? Halo Board 2 btw - refuses to turn on. Any help appreciated! <3
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You can keep those if you want. I only run 3 wires per motor though.
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So after riding, I try and turn my bkb dual off but nothing happens. Open up the board and sure enough, one of the wires connecting the button to the built in antispark on the flipsky 4.2 plus came apart. Resoldered it together, but it still doesn’t work. Sparked the xt60 when plugging it in. Could this be something to do with the esc itself? Or probably just the button. Anyone know where I could purchase a new button? Don’t see one on fs’ website
I’ve revived some… Your BMS will probably not allow you to charge correct?
Ive disconnected the BMS, and pulled (disconnected) power to the ESC, and charged super low amps (like a make pretend 1s pack off my qwad battery charger…) Li-on setting as low in amps as you can… Get each p-group as close in volts as you can…
Get each p-group near-identical voltage… up to voltage that your charger will charge the battery…
Good luck
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Not sure if its the bms or that the brick charger I have won’t charge a battery that’s sleeping but ya, the result is the same. I’ve got a DC stepdown power supply on route as this was suggested as a possible fix. I.e. try and slowly raise the voltage charging at 1 amp and monitoring for heat. If I disconnect the bms I will have to charge each p group individually correct?
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yup… you’ll have access to each individual P-group voltage and +/- thru the BMS pins… but go easy here and know what you’re doing!!! things can really go bad quickly plugging shit into shit incorrectly… you’ll have to charge each group separately like a 1s… don’t try and charge two p-groups off the same charger…
This is the adapter I made out of dupont pins and a 1s plug
EDIT… I see @b264 lurking… YUP I should have fused this at like 2amps…
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as @kook said, be extremely careful doing that
Don’t accidentally short the pins out
You could put a resister in series to charge even slower than 1 amp if you want
maybe 10K to charge ultra ultra slow or smaller to charge faster
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This is the stepdown supply’s product parameters so it looks like I can use it to charge at < 1 amp without the need for a resistor correct?
Yep, correct
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how many cells in your P-group?
3p. If I’m being honest, I’m def out of my depth here and am not sure that I’ll proceed with this route due to the complexity involved and the very real risk of trouble. Still learning about proper pack building nvm trouble shooting and charging through bms pins 
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It’s smart to admit you’re over your pay grade… things really can go badly if you don’t proceed safely and intelligently…
where you located?
Absolutely. A wise man knows that he knows nothing. In Toronto, CAN. I have 40 vt6’s and a smart bms on route so I’ll very likely concentrate my time and energy on building a bulletproof pack instead of trying to revive this one at great personal risk lol. It just sucks all the dicks that it was such a young pack. I hate waste!
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