Yeah it’s 5.99. There’s an option where you can apply motor settings but with my unity running 23.46 it fails. So I’m just trying to see if I flip it to FW 5.01 if it would work. Want the ability to change things on the fly with an iPhone. Looks like metr app can do it but I don’t want to buy two dongles when the unity already has one integrated and I have the normal VESC 4 one.
The iOS app in App Store states 4mo ago the new version supported FW 5.01.
It depends on whether you are talking about AC or DC IR, which cells, how they are connected, the condition of the cells, and what you are using to measure the IR.
It could be anything from <5mOhms to 50mOhms or even a lot higher for crappy cells, crappy connections, crappy wiring, or a crappy device used to measure the IR.
With the info you gave me the IR will be somewhere between 5mOhms to 30mOhms or higher. A lot higher if one or more cells is old/damaged, the connections are bad, the wiring is bad, etc.
Many hobby chargers are essentially useless for taking IR measurement and many are pretty inaccurate for capacity measurement too. Or…you have bad cells and/or bad welds/connections to the p-group or the cells.
For IR testing they are measuring the resistance of everything between their circuitry and inside of the cells. You need to use soldered connections to the cells you are measuring or, at least, verrrrrrrry low resistance connections.
That charger has a decent reputation though so I would, right now, suspect the p-group or your connections before we say the charger is wrong.
As a comparison, test a single 30Q. You should get about 25mOhms with good connections as the cell itself is about 20mOhms.
Just curious…why are you trying to measure the IR of that p-group?
the p groups stop charging at about 3.8V - 3.9V I’m charging from the balance plug. not all of them just 3 so far. all the other ones are already at 4.01V
I have a 4wd board already so this build I want something much lighter and portable, oh and yeah cheaper haha. Single motor means single ESC and drive pulleys too
So now you know its a single drive build the V7 mount will be ok on the 180mm trucks with this 6380 motor yeah? I presume I’ll have to do a rear motor mount with 90mm wheels though yeah?
Yep that would be a pretty good setup. Depending on what your enclosure looks like, you could easily do a forwards mounted setup. My first board had 83’s and I had two forwards mounted motors on TB V4 mounts.
I just mounted a pair of V7’s rear mounted onto a board yesterday, and they are SUPER chonky. They’re pretty awesome.
How often do cast alu baseplates fail? We get CNC hangers since cast hangers aren’t quite built as well for our purposes (not saying they can’t be used at all), but is it worth getting a CNC’ed alu baseplate too?
What do we know about the com port on the unity that the ble module connects to? Would it be possible to get the required signal from it into a usplit, then run a davegax and metr from the usplit outputs?
I have the vx2 on the main com port and don’t want to run the usplit on the remote
Hey peeps, I’m almost done with my build. My current wiring makes it hard to get the female loop key to the wall of the enclosure to jb weld it. Is it okay to make an extension to the side of the enclosure? Or is that too many solder joints, as if there aren’t enough already?
It’s not going to implode if you do that, but it’s certainly less than ideal.
I’d recommend just desoldering the wires that go to the loop key socket already, and replace them with longer ones. You’re going to be soldering anyway, might as well have that effort go towards not making more of a mess.
Make sure you cable tie all those connectors together. They fit super tight, but you’d be surprised at how fast they can come apart inside the enclosure once you add “high vibrations” to the mix.
