Thanks for the suggestions. What are your thoughts on Focbox unity and Flipsky’s 6.6+ one?
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Focbox is outdated and sold by someone who screwed over a lot of people. You’re literally buying the controller that’s supposed to be in someone’s paid and not sent board. Flipshit has 0 quality control and sub zero customer service. I would only recommend if you can buy from amazon as they back their sales without the actual seller having a say
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Get a small blowtorch and a IR/Laser thermometer
Heat until the part is ~260-270°C, it might let off a bit of smoke
Separate the parts while hot
It’s not that hard but you need to get the parts hot enough otherwise they won’t budge
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Eh… too expensive. Will a hammer work?
If you mean Loctite 290 then it’s anywhere from “kinda tough but no problem” to “impossible without heating”
Use the TINIEST bit of it. It will seep into all the cracks.
If you cannot remove it, use a heat gun to increase its temperature to above 290F (143C) and it will come right off. I don’t know if that’s intentional or a coincidence.
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“green loctite” doesn’t mean much, loctite is a company that makes a lot of green liquids 
Loctite 641 is what I would use on that.
Are your bearing seats slightly oversized or is it sideways play?
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Sure, if you don’t mind destroying the bearing in the process.
DO NOT use a hammer to install new bearings, unless you apply the force only to the fitting race. Basically, if installing a bearing in a hole, only apply force to the outer race. If installing a bearing on a shaft, only apply force on the inner race.
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sure!!!
go ahead!!
you can always fuck some shit up with a hammer!!
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A hammer is almost always successful, at least from the hammer’s perspective.
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I have a Metr pro unity that I couldn’t get to work a couple of months ago. Going to see if you fine people have some input.
I can connect to the Metr, but can’t get any stats readings.They are all at 0.
I have an enertion bt module connected at the moment that, and that works perfectly.
The metr blinks green rapidly and blue slowly. It is connected correctly and FW is up to date.
What ESC, what ESC FW version, what Metr FW version, what device are you trying to connect with, etc.
Looking for some opinions for gearing on an MTB build. Motors are the new Flipsky 190kv 6374s, and it will be on 8" tires. I’m kind of stuck between 12:62 and 12:70 at this moment. 62 gives me a loaded speed of 34, while 70 gives me 30. The 62 also gives me slightly more ground clearance since it’s physically smaller, so it’s slightly less likely to scrape or catch something. However, the 70 gives me more adjustment opportunities later on since the motor sprocket is easier to change, and I can go bigger motor sprockets to get more speed, unlike the 62, where I’m just about at the limit of minimum motor sprocket size (10 and 9 are available, but are going to be noisy). Are the motors torquey enough on the 62 gearing, or should I go with the bigger 70?
This all depends on the type of riding you want to be doing. Is this a purely road build? Or are you gonna be doing some off-road as well? Or purely a trail rider? What kind of speeds are you normally cruising at?
If you dont normally go faster than 30mph, and you dont think you are going to miss that top speed, then I would opt for the torque and customizability of the 70t.
It’s a hybrid, probably 80% road, 20% off road. I haven’t gone past 25mph, but that’s because my prebuilt maxes out at 23. I wouldn’t mind the extra speed, especially since it’s going to be way smoother compared to 90mm hubs, but I don’t have a point of comparison at the moment. Seems like 70’s probably the way to go, as long as it’s not significantly larger in diameter than 62.
Edit: It’s 5.7" in diameter, is that cutting it close to the ground?
Honestly, if it were me and I hadn’t already ordered the motors, I’d go 62 and drop the KV of the motors to 170, and get the same loaded speed of 30MPH with some extra ground clearance. That also means you have the possibility to gear even lower if needed later, or gear higher if you’re feeling like a speed demon.
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Hmm I still have the option to gear down the 62 with a 10 tooth motor sprocket, but I read something about minimum circumference that meant reduced meshing, making it louder. It’s still a way to salvage it if clearance becomes an issue. The diameter of a 70 and 62 is only different by half an inch, so it’s a quarter of an inch more clearance. I’m not sure how much of a difference that would make.
I would be less worried about the noise, and more worried about the motor pulley skipping teeth. The fewer teeth in mesh that you have, the less grip your motor pulley has on the belt, and the more skipping you are going to get. Thats the kind of shit that can get you into some really hairy situations when you need to stop quickly.
Oh they’re chain sprockets, so skipping is less of an issue. Although I’ll have to keep an eye on tension so it doesn’t grenade itself, unlike belts which just snap.
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Turns my out dumb ass didn’t see the switch for 220v or 110v. Once I switched to 110v, bravo!
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Noob here.
Convince me to get the TB 110s over the 100s. Is the 50 dollar price difference worth the extra 10mm?