Thinking of cramming as many of them as I can into a OW in 1P behind a little FOCer.
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Depends what speeds you plan on doing.
Usually if you pull high battery amps you’re at speed where you don’t quite realise how much you pull, but if you accelerate to a certain speed and then hover around there the consumption drops by a lot. I was pulling 40 battery amps to stay at 50-55km/hr on 6x2 wheels, but accelerating to there can get me near 80 battery amps with a bit of effort
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Continuing with the battery theme, thoughts on a 12S1P 12Ah LiPo pack vs. 12S4P P42a pack? First has 25% less capacity, but is less than half the cost. Both have identical discharge rates (180A cont). Alternatively, I could double the first one to 2P for roughly the same cost as the 21700 pack, which gets me 30% more range and double the current to the 21700 pack. Maybe I should go with a 12S1P until it dies, and then go with a larger 6 or 8P standard pack if I find that I need the extra range? Or should I jump directly to a built pack? It’s a top mount, so upgrading is pretty simple, and there’s plenty of space.
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Is the lipo pack really only 15C? Remember to take into consideration cycle life when comparing price. IME, it’s easier to fuck up a lipo pack and degrade it significantly w/ a single mistake, so there is that to consider. I love me some lipos though.
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Yep 15C continuous, such is the tradeoff for higher capacities and low prices (~$100 for a 6S 12Ah). Cycle count seems to be the main drawback, but I don’t think I’ve ever actually worn out a battery yet, so I feel like it should be ok for two years or so. Plus I already have a charger from other hobbies.
does anyone make fancy (i.e precision) dkp trucks (i saw somehting about psychotiller doing some, but he’s before my time.and maybe even blacklisted now)? and if not, what would be an alternative to make a board more carvey? (aside from bushing setup)
You could go with surfskate adapters if you want a really carvy setup. I’ve seen a lot of people with the Waterborne Surf Adapters, and you can throw whatever precision trucks you want on top of that.
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yeah, i did consdier that, they just seem a bit cumbersome/fiddly and raise the also board off the ground too much. may be worth experimenting with though. funny there’s zero demand for precision dkp, maybe theyre too closely aligned with Evolve and so scream n00b or something
DKP do the same.
Surfrodz TKP are carvey and ride low
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ah ok, had no idea they were carvey. is it common for ppl to use a single front SR TKP?
Not really common, but I don’t see why that would be an issue.
Might need to use risers to even out the height difference.
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also, ive not yet worked out the SR metric yet. I have 220 BN hangers, but i dont think there’s an equivalent for SR TKP…maybe im mistaken (im basiclaly lost everytime i go to their product page since there are axles and hangers…which look the same, and they advertise them 10mm, which is not what im after, presumably. ok the hanger/axle thing isnt an issue, just the length which confuses me)
Yes, they are a bit complicated in that sense.
You pretty much always want the 10mm axle ones.
Biggest one in TKP is 177mm, so you either use shoulder bolts and get any effective hanger width you want with 10mm bearings.
OR
use boardnamics 10-8 fixed axles and stick with standard 8mm bearings. those axles add around 25mm per side, so 177 will be slightly wider than BN220.
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ok, that clears up a lot. thank you 
Other factors to consider in no particular order:
- Lipos are physically much more bulky for a given energy content.
- The C rating of RC lipo batteries are usually grossly exaggerated (I’m talking a 2-5x exaggeration in some cases), so I’d be careful about assuming that lipo build will handle the same current as the P42a pack.
- RC lipos have drastically worse cycle life in general, even when treated perfectly. They’re just not built for longevity. 100 cycles is practically ancient for a lipo, whereas you could probably expect 300+ cycles from the P42a pack.
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…and 3000 cycles from a LiFePO4 pack
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So, question on the FOCBOX Unity the motor connectors are number 1,2,3. On my motors there labeled by colors. Black, Blue, and yellow. Any one knows the line up ?
Guys, i need your ideas again.
I want to add a modular battery to my street board.
It currently has a bottom mounted battery with the cables running on top of the deck.
The plan is to add the new battery box in the middle of the deck (top) and connect it to the esc via the same xt30 after the empty one is disconnected…
I’ll be connecting the current battery and esc via xt30’s, that way i can unplug the bottom one, place the battery on top and connect it over the xt30.
Do you have any idea on how i could hide the cables? I thought about redoing my griptape and laying it over that but then it would be covered and not accessible anymore. Cutting a window is…ugly
Current state:
Next step adding the connectors:
this would be with the battery on top
How would you hide or cover the newly added connectors and cable? The cable still needs to be able to be pulled out so i can connect the top battery, if the battery is not used it’ll get. tucked back inside the channel
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Any, any, and any. If the motor spins backwards, either reverse it in software or swap any two wires (doesn’t matter which two.)
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So there is no ground?