Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

I clean the hole out with alcohol and a cotton swab, let it dry, then epoxy the axle in with JB Weld or West System 650

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Amazon. The big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot are useless as they don’t really carry metric at all.

https://www.amazon.com/Raogoodcx-250pcs-Socket-Assortment-Plastic/dp/B01G30ZN3E/ref=sr_1_9

Or if you know what size it is maybe PM me and I can mail you just one. But only if you know what size it is :crazy_face:

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Yes it’s probably not great. I just had a BMS that was cutting charge at a lower voltage than the balancers kick on at, causing this same issue. I shorted C- to B- on the BMS and left it on a low amperage charger for a week and it corrected itself.

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Ok that set looks great. Not really sure what size. They just came in secondhand pulleys. Good to have extras though. Thanks a lot.

oh btw, i was totally wrong. For whatever reason i said vx1, its a mini remote

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thx…is the C- the dedicated charge lead on the BMS? I’ll check to see if I have one. BTW do you know where I can find heat shrink to fit my battery, I silicon-ed my battery into my enclosure. If I open it up I’ll have to replace it.

Well actually mine was the P- setup… but if you had a C-, then it’d be the C- port

The problem was the balancers were kicking on at 4.17 volts but the overcharge was kicking off the charger if any P group reached 4.16 volts. Hence, the battery will never balance. Shorted B- to P- and left it charge at 4.20 for a week and they are all balanced. Battery charged up to 4.20 but then bleeds down to 4.17 slowly.

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Got the flux board (12S10P 35E cells) with 6396 Maytech’s.

Unity settings as follows:

Max Battery discharge 80A
Max regen 20A

Max motor current: 80A
Max break current: -70A

I never went super fast with it but changed the motor pulleys a couple of weeks ago, so currently testing my speed limits :slight_smile:
There were 1-2 situations where I had to break pretty hard and the breaking wasnt really good with speeds higher than 25 mph (I could max out the trigger pretty easy) so I checked the app: max -20-25Amps in higher speed, in lower speed it went up to 50-60 (until the wheels locked).
Is this a “safety” feature related to the max regen setting of the battery? Settings wrong?

That’s normal behavior. At high speed, you’re limited by the max regen setting (-20A in this case.) As the speed comes down, the limit switches from being that, and becomes the motor braking current (-70A in this case.)

To get better brakes at high speed, you need more regen current, but of course you have to be somewhat careful not to damage the cells.

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To all my mountain board/carver peeps, what is y’all experiences with running no bindings on a build that has a big heavy top box? Does the weight of box impede the turning ability such that bindings are needed to make up for it?

Im trying to decide if I want to go bindings optional, or full time bindings.

Anyone? @Venom121212 you tried any of your top box mountain boards with no bindings?

i don’t think i could run it without bindings. I use them quite a bit for steering. I really lean into them

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Do you think that the top box vs underslung enclosure affects that much? Or is it more about your truck setup?

Nah, I use the bindings too much to turn. I’d throw them on a street board if I had any trouble turning. It also lets me tighten the bushings more. I use my body too much to turn to not have them.

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On my mtb it’s the truck setup.

With my streetboard i was running a 10s4p top mounted and recently switched to 10s2p front bottom mounted. Board steers as usual but with the smaller one the board it feels like it has more heft while steering.

So 10s4p top middle mounted.
vs 10s2p front bottom mounted.

Steering capability is the same, 2p bottom front just feels slightly heavier.

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Is it possible to wirelessly connect VESC Tool on my laptop (not the mobile app, I don’t have android) to my Stormcore via the integrated NRF52 module (I don’t want to use the USB-C cable)?

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I don’t think so.
I’m not sure of the iphone app’s capabilities.
With the android app you can set up a vesc >>> phone >>> computer wireless bridge and do all your programming that way.

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iv’e been told that Carbon Fiber enclosures are risky bc the CF may interfere with the electronics. With regards to the Hummie, which is made partialy in CF, are there not risks there? i ask because i intend to add another layer of CF on they underside of the hummie deck (which is wood) in order to strengthen it after I shave a few cm off of the routed space to fit a bigger battery…any thoughts on these things?

Show us how you do that. Just ordered a flipshit bt module and i wanna run it on unity. They have two …one for vesc 4.xxx and 6.xxx

Use black fiberglass instead of carbon fiber if your worried

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