Machinists! I know I should not attempt milling operations on my drill press.
But what if I have a chuck with an integrated Morse taper?
Which connection makes lateral loads on a drill press dangerous? The Jacobs or the Morse?
Mine has no Jacobs.
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Question from this Noob. I have all the parts for my first build. I am working through understanding how to connect everything to my FOCBOX unity…specifically I have a question about connecting a torque boards 12s4p battery to a FOCBOX unity.
specifically if there is anything I should be aware of when it comes to the battery on/off switch and the separate switch (i think it’s called a momentary switch) that came with the Unity.
Do you first turn the battery switch on which then is providing power to the unity and then turn on the switch that came with the Unity? that seems to make sense to me but I am of course worried about frying my Unity somehow since i have never done that before.
For reference my the components I’m using for the build are:
TB-40 deck & enclosure,
12s4p battery from TB,
ownboard Double kingpin trucks,
Torque Boards 6" pneumatic tires and belt drive setup
- 2 - flipsky 6374 - 140KV motors (i live in SF and LOVE bombing UP steep hills on my Lonestar so thought the 140KV would handle the hills better and 25 mph is bout fast as I usually am riding…sound logic?),
- Hoyt street puck for a remote (also have the TB mini with the trigger but thinking i’m gonna use the puck as a remote)
mainly wondering about having the separate switch for the battery on/off and the switch to turn on the Unity and if there is anything there I should be aware of.
and while I’m at it…I put the Unity App on my Note 10 / Android phone…is that all I need to do the motor config and do it over Bluetooth ? Or Should I get the FOCBOC tool on my desktop? and to install that am I looking for the source code file to install on my PC?
Many thanks in advance to everyone for their generosity of knowledge and time.
-Q
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So, looking for a battery but know nothing about them. I came across this and was wondering if these ratings were low, high, average?
Nominal Voltage: 48V
Nominal Capacity: 20Ah
Cell: 18650 3400mAh
Assembly: 13S6P
Category:Li-ion Battery
Voltage : Peak - 54.6V, working - 48V
Capacity: 20Ah
Power: 300W-2000W
Cut-off voltage: 36.4V
Max. discharging current: 60A mp
Max Continuous Discharging Amperage: 20Amps
Rated Discharging Amperage: 20A mps
Charging Current: <5 Amps
Charging Voltage: 54.6 Volts
Dimension: 25011570mm
Battery Weight: 4kg
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That’s low grade, nonsensical.
Consider that the pack claims it’s a 20ah pack.
Now consider the 3400mah 18650 claim. There are only a handful of 18650 cells that fit this bill. Sanyo/Panasonic/maybe Samsung 35e.
Even simpler, 20ah is not divisible by 3.4ah.
The total pack capacity (ampere hours -> ah) is calculated by multiplying the p-group number by the ah rating of a single cell.
Moreover, the amp discharge ratings don’t make any sense. If they did magically, 20 or 30A will disappoint you for a continuous discharge rating.
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don’t buy aliexpress batteries
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The unity has anti spark functionality built in. However, other escs do not.
Best practice though, plug the switch in to an Esc or a smart switch prior to connecting the battery.
Well damn, had my hopes up. No wonder its so cheap. What would you recommend as far as ratings for battery packs?
10s4p with brand name cells is the minimum.
Thats what i had originally. Looking for something with a bit more power- 12s?
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I see. There is no cheap approach to 12s. 12s4p Samsung 30q is good start.
12s4p 40t or molicel is mid grade I guess.
If you have enough experience to know that 10s is meh, time to cut your teeth on diy packs or open your wallet and buy a Esk8 specific pack.
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Let me tell you, ive been through a lot of different battery settings and 12s its worth it, buy a quality pack, the money you spend now its money you wont spend in the future upgrading/repairing. If you cant spend the money now, just save up, chinese cells are no good if you love life.
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Im convinced. 12s4p 30q here we come.
So um, now where do i find one?
thats affordable
Probably the most affordable pack you’ll find.
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Nice. And a forum member. I would rather buy from a well known and respected forum member than some untested/unknown whatever. Thanks guys. Time to open the wallet.
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Both, but morse is much less bad than jacobs due to the shallower taper and larger engagement area.
Some milling machines even use morse taper tooling, but almost always with a drawbar to prevent tools from pulling out.
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Cool. I suspected as much.
I’m not an engineer, but Jacobs taper just looks stupid. No?
Can I petition harbor freight to add in a third Unnecessary taper? We need an Arzamenable taper in this mix.
Yasss, who else is feeling stupid? @kook? Lets throw in a kook taper too for good measure.
(Thanks for the genuine answer btw 
)
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I’m trying to solve motor temperature, don’t know why it isn’t working.
Because I want it for apps which are tracking your ride. It’s very strange when I have on my ride still -99,9°C
Take a multimeter to your sensor wires? Should be ~10k (if a 10k thermistor) or ~100k (if a 100k thermistor) between the temp wire and ground. Or maybe 5v.
Test and report back.
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What’s a low, but acceptable, ground clearance for a street build?
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