True but i think you could do the same with metr? Get a notification if the connection is cut?
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don’t know 
my metr module has crazy range, 3 walls was far enough that I won’t even hear the motor revving away from me 
I need something with shorter range connection
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that is true…
Until metr sends you a notification of a cut conenction he’ll be around the block already with its crazy range 
Workaround : notification if a recording is stating. = instant notification
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it might work that way, but i personally don’t need that function
we r just brainstorming for @Geo_Engineering_FTW’s need
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i know, me neither ^^
At least he now may see a bigger benefit of using them
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Was just thinking of the extra benefits of getting a metr over the FS. if someone tries to
mug me I’ll give them the keys to my house rather than fight lol, but the strobe light is a good idea. Prob will opt for the FS one, seems fine for my needs. Thanks for the help
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How is everyone creating daisy chained CAN connectors? Is there an industry standard way to do this?
To clarify what is the proper way to connect the physical wires/connectors?
Tape…
Cleanest looking will be one long complete canbus cable (nicely crimped with connectors) with another 2 short cable pairs hooked up near the ends for a 4wd setup
That allows for heatshrink and a very clean cable overall
Proper way is with split ports (way overkill) or cable twisted, soldered and heatshrinked over
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A question about racing setups…8S vs high pack voltages?
I saw that incredible V4 setup by @MoeStooge and had a noob question. Why use an 8S setup vs a much higher pack voltage that offers lower losses in the wiring, ESC, packs?
Is it a motor winding/physical size thing or more of a torque vs speed tradeoff?
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HV is just becoming a thing. Moe’s setup is centered around his controllers (8S, non-vesc) and his motors (high kv inrunners).
I think the losses from staying at lower voltage are inconsequential, but I’m also interested in what a lower kv inrunner would do paired with two 75/200 or 300 VESCs.
Not many inrunners running on vescs.
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Hi! I just find out that my hall sensors are showing -99°C motor temp. I think it was showing on my old VESC too (maker x dual mini).
My setup - two Torqueboards 6355 motors and Focbox unity (Maybe is important something other?)
Is there a way how to fix it?
I don’t think the Stormcore 100S has that.
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Lower voltage = higher kv motors = thicc wires. There’s probably a sweet spot in the middle where the windings have the most amount of raw copper and the least amount of air and wire coating
Higher voltages potentially mean wires so thin that any advantages that were gained in the controller get shit on by some 63100 70kv motors that are more useful as space heaters
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i didn’t know that, my bad
That’s what I was thinking. It seemed that by using an 8S setup, versus an “average” 10S or 12S or a high voltage setup, that there must have been some sort of real benefit to it though.
Though it certainly could have just been based on some parts already owned so it got built as an 8S for that reason versus a race-related benefit reason.
Wouldn’t the uber-high kV motors be using less current though (to result in the desired power level), not heating up as much?
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Don’t think they have temperature sensors. No one needs them anyway really
Basically if your motor can’t pass the three second hand test, it might be time to turn down the motor amps
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I think it’s more of an outrunner vs. inrunner argument. Inrunners will deliver power more efficiently.
10s/12s with outrunners are the standard for a reason - you get a good balance of torque/speed with reasonable gear ratios, but it kinda falls apart if you require higher performance.
Inrunners would probably be the best way to maximize power output without going to 4WD.
A fast spinning inrunner geared down will pretty much always outperform an outrunner (at the same target speed).
But it’s tricky because they spin so fast. You need a lot of reduction or a low voltage/high current setup.
I think the slowest inrunners (wye terminated 10 turns) are around 300kv, might work pretty well on a VESC at 10s/12s, target speed seems reasonable.
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I’m not so versed in motors, so you can probably dismiss everything i say as soon as someone that actually knows his shit comes along.
Lower** kv in the same size motor means more turns around the stator fins. There’s only so much that can fit in there so sacrifices are made in wire diameter.
Now, longer and thinner wire ring in my head as higher resistance under load and more losses.
Keeping the same kv as a typical 12s setup would have (170~190kv) with a higher reduction gearing would still increase losses in the fact that a motor that’s designed to be efficient at 4000-8000rpm now does almost double that
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Ahhh…things are falling into place in my mind now @Athrx. LOL…so much for me to learn before doing my first board. Well, except for the battery stuff. 
Thank you for your time and patience!
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this is the headline 
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