Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Thank you for all the info, it was supposed to say 6s. I’ll look into those and do some maths.

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Are bergmeister hubs all expensive, or are there 3rd party/clones that work ok too?

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1: that site is overpriced af on everything. It should give you a clue
2: bergs rims are cnc so pretty damn expensive yea. Currently unobtanium as well
3: if you find any let me know to split international shipping lol
4*: seen some 3dprinted ones a while ago, can’t comment on durability though

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Ah, weird. Was looking the boardnamics geardrive updates this morning (sooo hyped!), and alongside kegal and flywheel compatability is Bergmeister…which like you say are #unobtanium … odd decision?

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Different than what? Pneummies? Or TB110?

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Haggy would have had them for sure, but he’s currently moving in spain. (Way better when he does reopen)
Only unobtanium because seller isn’t available, unlike other things around here in batches of 20…

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TB110’s

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Ah right, I’m in the UK so his move to Spain is welcome news

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The TB110s will feel better and ride better, but the cores are very different as well, so it depends what pulleys or gears or direct drives you have. Either one will offer the 'thane feel and a much higher range then pneumatic. I prefer the TB110 over the Superfly any day but I still prefer the Superfly over pneummies. 'Thane seems more reliable (no flat tires, sliced valve stems, exposed cords, etc) and has a much higher range and has that longboard feel to it, but of course the pneummies will offer a much smoother ride.

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Thanks, useful info.
Yeah, sounds like I’ll want the TB110’s, but item+shipping to the UK is shocking.

One issue with my unity i can’t get the push to start to work

Mounting a MR-60 to an enclosure…how?

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Make a hole in the enclosure and epoxy the male side (with the pins) through the side of the enclosure. Use West System 650 epoxy or some other kind. Angle the MR60 slightly upward, toward the deck. Make sure they won’t be in the way of the motors or wheels at full lean.

Solder the wires into them after the epoxy cures.

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I would assume the same for a top mounted box?

i think the main problem will be the thickness of the box @ ~2mm

e: or maybe its just time to upgrade the box…

I drill through it and then trim the hole with a file.

I haven’t done it on a top-mount box but imagine it should work just fine. Just don’t angle it down so the bumps and vibrations are trying to pull the plug out. Secure the wire a short distance from the plug.

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btw, any reason to use the prong side on the enclosure and not the motor?

Yes, because the female end with the holes has a much, much smaller area you can mount, as the sheath on the male connector slips over it.

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oh right, now that you mention it.

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So i have a dilemma. My ESC blew up on me so I’m trying to find another one that is kinda cheap, (~$200) and will give me all the power I need and not kill me by taking a shit on me. I have a MTB with 7" pnuemies, 2× 170kv 6374’s, 15t motor and 72t wheel. Since my battery and my esc are both buried, (may they rest in pieces) im planning on putting another 10s or 12s on it. There are so many options out there but I want a good quality one that has been tried and tested. Any ideas?
Oh, the motors are 1500w each

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I recommend buying two TB6. Torqueboxes. TBesc. Whatever the hell theyre called. They’re excellent for the price. Or buy a used Unity. I heard the Spintend Ubox is great as well

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