most inrunners available require gearing ratios that are not practical on our eskates. an exception is the very low kv flipsky (kv=200), but with such thin windings it may not be any more efficient than a good outrunner. outrunners also offer good partial throttle efficiency, and most (but not all) skaters are not riding balls to the walls the whole time. check out the stooge boards for examples of inrunner boards that work well for that specific application (track racing).
Ooh, so they only hit there optimal efficiency during the high upper rpm ranges… oof.
Thx for the answer!
I saw these two and thought it would be cool to see a mono drive board rocking one that could dust most dual drives 
They seem like a natural progression from bulky outrunners with all these 200a+ 75+ volt escs in the works, so maybe we shall see some more balls to the walls guys out here!
Thanks for walking me through the absolute max current theory last night. It would be a shame to not pass on the knowledge to the rest of us noobs.
Any way we could convince you to give a run down of the absolute max current setting, limitations and what it affects in the VESC tool?
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I have a build coming up and I am really tight on space, (jet spud with 10s3p p42a dual motors…)
I am considering using a flipshite 4.2 not plus, I am running one on a similarly powered build and so far 400km and no issues w 6354 190kv motors 10s3p 30Q. Is there an alternative with similar dimensions, I am also looking at maybe going the route of using 2x single fsec 6.6 but haven’t found anyone that has put a significant amount of miles on it. I saw that @rafaelinmissouri was running one, if so how is the experience so far?
Posting this here cuz the build is not at the stage for me to start a topic yet.
I have read a lot of conflicting opinions on vescs based escs and I know flipskidoodle is not the most reliable. If I had the space I would go for a cheap FOCer 2 or 2x maytec superfoc6.8 but I cant.
I am also looking at 2x makerx MINI FOC PLUS as they would also fit. I am not sure about how reliable the maker-x are, I haven’t seen a lot of folks using them.
Thanks!
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The reviews I read for this ESC from esk8supply say it’s pretty small. You’re a little limited with it, but could be a good option for you
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Ideally I would be looking for 2x separate controllers so if one breaks I need to only replace one… @b264 style 
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Hey dude.
The one I’m using is the version with the button.
It has been totally fine for me.
I have ran it with a Flipksky 6374 190kV
And a 12s3p 30q pack.
Control is really smooth.
Couple disclaimers.
I have been super lucky with all my Flipksky stuff…
And I don’t ride this single drive board a ton.
But when I do it is able to move my 225 lb ass pretty well.
Something else to consider is two of these will take up a bunch of room dude…
I wish I had some better images. But if you are right in space these may make it harder.
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Looks huge, I guess I was a little too optimistic when I saw the measurements on flipsky website! Thanks for the pics, helps a ton to get a better idea of scale!
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I have been doing this for a week or two. it’s worked that long.
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with most board sports this is a matter of doing. practice more. don’t over think.
my favorite koan is that most peoples explanations of how to kickflip only make sense once you know how to kickflip.
that aside. loose trucks as you can tolerate. and lean. 
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My dumb question for the day.
As I continue to consider how to stuff too much battery into a prototipo. and venture into the use some riser for the enclosure. how much is too egregious? is 10mm an insane amount? 15mm too much?
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I would say front truck loose and lean with both feet on equal angle baseplates.
For me it’s fucky because i run a dropthrough deck in the normal, non-intended way and it’s unstable when leaning, but i can do a 180 in 2 lanes worth of space.
You can either do sharp corners or be stable at speed… or improvise something inbetween and hope you won’t die
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Help me diagnose another motor sound! It stutters at full throttle; not at top speed, which it reaches on any throttle position; but specifically when giving it the full amps. Should I be concerned? I filed the can down because I think that was making a sound earlier, but I’m not sure.
Checked the inside, all magnets in their place, no pebbles, loose wire, etc.
To clarify: I didn’t have the motor making sounds yesterday, so something went wrong during my last 2 rides. Maybe it’s the bearings? But they seemed fine when I spun them with my fingers.
To add: it’s not easy to hear in the video, but there’s a constant ticking sound when I increase the throttle; so even if there were no stutters, it still doesn’t sound good 
Edit: Assembled it anyway; went for a ride – once it reaches a certain speed it makes a loud af sound. I think the can might just be too assymetrical so once it reaches a certain speed it makes contact anyway. Will swap stators tomorrow and see. Maybe I should just treat motors as consumables and buy cheap ones in bulk 
Update after testing with different motors: same problem; looks like the ESC is fucked. In BLDC mode I hear it a bit as well. 
Well, after a ride, BLDC mode works at least. But I miss the power of low speed FOC 
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How long are you phase wires does it only happen in FOC have you tried to run wizard again are there errors in vesc log?
From a Noob side of things…
Motor wires not connected all the time?
Just check this…
Otherwise someone needs to summon @b264
I do have long phase wires, but the connections themselves are solid.
Can you:
Pull/push on the can
Push on the side of the can?
If it moves it’s the bearings
Nope! Can is very secure this time round.
