Think ideal if you can cad up the size and position of the pulleys and idler then can print a drawing at 1:1 scale and use a string to trace out the belt path and measure the length of the string. If you have all the parts can just temporarily assemble and use a string to measure the path length.
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You might have it just too big. I can tell you that a 60T pulley is damn big, 66T even worse, yet at the edge, the idler may juuust fit. I’d say wait for the parts to arrive first, then do the string measurement thing.
Or just get belts from dickyho, 2 405 2 410
Don’t try 400 belts if measurement days 401. You’ll fuck up bearings
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Belt calculator has no option for a 66t pulley but it does for 64t (394.7mm) and 68t (407.7).
394.7+((407.7-394.7)/2)=401.2mm. So that might just be a little too tight for 400mm, I’m worried 405 might be too loose without the idler though. Will mount everything this weekend before I order belts.
Try 16t motor pulley? Closer to 405…
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New to eskate…but wondering if it is possible to add either a second battery or just a bigger better battery to extend the range of my teamgee H5?
Thank you
Since the battery is integrated into the deck you’ll probably have a really hard time doing it, if its possible. Most of the time DIY builds will use batteries thicker than the thickness of that deck. Unless you plan on adding an enclosure for it, it might not be worth it
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Yes.
Question is regarding the relationship with torque and range
I’ve decide to change one of my main boards to use TB AT 160mm wheels, I think the last time I used those wheels I was getting 18 miles of range with 10s6p 30Qs. I later discovered those wheel pulleys had issues where the bearing seize and doesn’t free wheel. I think I’ve fixed that issue so maybe I’ll get a few more miles without that resistance now.
Current gearing:
Wheel Pulley 62T
Motor Pulley 18T (33.5mph)
I’m okay with going a little slower as I want to get more torque for the few inclines I go through. I have a set of 14T (26.0mph) and 15T (27.9mph) I can swap in.
TLDR: Does anyone know what adding torque though gearing do to overall range?
It shouldn’t have a drastic effect with that little change in the gearing. Having more torque without giving it more throttle/current means you aren’t drawing as many watts at peak and so should see a corresponding change in the consumption on average over time. Drawing less current for the same torque means so long as you are lighter on the throttle with the more torquey gearing then you’ll get some efficiency/range gain. That said I think reducing rubbing or any sort of rolling resistance (loosening belt, properly inflated pneumatics etc) can help more with efficiency (and avoiding the steep climbs if really trying to save power). The more you can free wheel coast and less you are heavy on acceleration and braking the better (better to coast to near stop and not be using power than to slam on brakes last second and get a small amount of power back at the cost of momentum 
)
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Had to check - I just did the default motor setup. Apparently it is FOC sensorless not HFI. Should I be on HFI? I’m a VESC noob
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Question about drilling for inserts.
Is it standard to drill perpendicular to the concave of the deck so the hardware sits flush of the enclosure?
I’m putting together BKB Tayto kit for an education b4 I assemble my sidekick and am trying to take my time and learn some more intricacies than just slapping the kit together.
I have rivet inserts from @eboosted that I planned on using to clean up the Tayto a bit.
TIA
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Sensorless is fine – and much easier to troubleshoot actually.
That’s what I did for my deck/enclosure. I think its pretty common. If your enclosure is a perfect fit (like the concave of the deck and enclosure match up) drilling the inserts normal to the curve is what you should do to ensure even force distribution. Also don’t be a dumbass like me and use brass inserts, use a harder metal with a touch of epoxy. I also recommend making different little batches of epoxy so it doesn’t get too hard to screw in.
If you want I can link some threads, just too lazy to rn lol
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Yep, but make sure you account for a gasket if you use one. It can potentially ruin the whole fit
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Thank you, it felt like a stupid question, but just wanted to make sure. BKB has the holes in the tayto drilled true vertical which makes the nut only touch the enclosure on one side. Must be for ease of manufacturing reasons I guess.
@Athrx Thank you, I do remember reading that and how adding a large gasket after changes the radius of it. Was happy to learn from someone else’s mistake(trying to teach my kid that!).
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Dual enclosure?
Back for esc then phase to battery in the middle?
Any ideas to make a vertical stand for e-mtb (trampa) for storage?
Could make a little 3d printed thing to hold the wheels and kingpin on the trucks, but have also heard of others using guitar holder/hook to hang them from the wall. Personally just lean mine up against the wall and accept that I have to clean that wall every few months to keep it from looking really bad.
Could also get one of these skate rack things but looks a little jank (probably won’t put this up at new place or will be in basement, but it’s an option)
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