Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Once you let out the magic smoke, you’ll never get it back in

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or as i call it, no more zoom zoom but boom boom :crazy_face:

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Phase shorts are the least of your worries.
First, rainwater is practically nonconductive unless you live somewhere with acid rain. Pure water is a great insulator. It’s only minerals that make it anything else. It’s not going to short your ultralow resistance thick copper phase wires carrying dozens of amps and <50 volts. Even comparatively FANTASTICALLY conductive sea water has orders of magnitude more resistance than even a thin copper wire.

Your main issues will be galvanic corrosion of the sensor board (if present and not coated), rusting of the stator, magnets, shaft and bearings (basically anything not made of aluminum or copper).

Riding through a rainstorm or puddle won’t kill your board instantly. It WILL reduce the life of your motors significantly unless you’ve taken steps to mitigate the above issues.

There are no “sealed” motors in esk8. They all have gaps, some just less than others. It comes with the outrunner architecture - The spinning can can’t touch the stationary body, because then it wouldn’t be able to spin. There are some motors with fewer holes than others, but none are perfect.

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@frame

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That’s very helpful, thank you

Dumb question but what does the 100s do?

Some proper mudguards eliminate 90% of the problems. No water spraying at you or the deck, just adherence problems but i’m yet to make a pneumatic wheel skid

The 100S has components that are rated for 100 volts(conventional vescs and focbox use components rated for 60 volts)

This allows you to run a higher voltage (20S should still be fine) and lower current for the same power output

Higher voltage and lower current has the benefit of lowering the electrical losses in the system

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Dual vs single

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I have a Flipsky dual 6.6 plus fsesc with a Flipsky Vx2 remote. The battery level indicator for the skateboard battery on my vx2 remote display is not reading accurately. How can I get an accurate battery reading on the remote screen with the vx2 and dual 6.6 plus fsesc?

I went home to see my family for 8 days and came back to realize that I left my antispark key plugged in :(.
I notice something was off when I plugged in the charger there was a small spark, and the light on the charger was blinking red. When I unplugged part of the charging port came off:

  • Battery (12s4p) reads 8.8v
  • Charger reads 50.4v

Is the battery dead would it discharge THAT low to 8.8v? Or is it possible that it’s just the BMS that died?

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Is your BMS charge only or discharge as well?
You’re measuring 8.8v directly from the battery?

Time for surgery. You’ll have to find out the problem and be prepared for the possible news that your battery is toast :frowning:

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so sad I’m 99% sure it’s dead.
@tipsy I didn’t build the pack but it’s supposed to be charge only bms.
Feels so bad to not have a working board

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12s4p shouldn’t go completely flat in 8 days, did you leave it close to empty when you left?

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It it was my 12S pack and it was measuring 9 volts, I’d connect a charger through like a 10K resistor in series and see if I could slowly bring it back up over like a week or two into the 30V+ range

I would also do that in an area where if a fire happened, it wasn’t catastrophic

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honestly I don’t remember, but it’s possible. I do a ton of short trips on one charge and charge when it starts to feels slower.

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Where are you located?

San Francisco, CA

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Ohhhh shiiit. If I wasn’t so busy, I might be able to help out

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