Yeah sure, let’s go with that.
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I guess from a picture they all look the same…wanted to prove my point and noticed it’s not proving anything 
@fujio001 just measure that bitch for God’s sake 
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Thank you, that’s a great explanation!
I’m using it as charge/dischsrge but I have my eyes on those d140 charg only bms for next riding season 
Well I’ll be fucking damned…that would mean we’re both wrong, Brian is right as always, and we might have learned Google is a better tool…
Imma go soak in conformal coating now
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Agreed.
This guy here. Trustworthy.
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my n00b question is why a THICK wire bridge, I just use a small gauge wire equivalent to my charge wire gauge and charge fuse rating, obviously, a THICK wire is moAr betterer, but I can’t imagine a scenario where the BMS back-feeds current into my open charge wire circuit if I’m wrong, I guess I just wire my discharge only BMS with an unintentional fuse…
but I’m a sparky nOOb and bow to your knowledge… please make me smart~ish!!
thanks
I thought to bypass a BMS you just didn’t connect P- to anything? Or is that just for that particular BMS? Or have I been wrong this whole time? 
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I would not do that when you can just connect B- to the ESC instead of P-.
I mean it would physically work in very specific use-cases but the risk [of damaging the BMS] is higher and then you could box yourself into a corner later when you want to add lights or do any number of cool things.
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awe…come on…
i wanna laugh over another n00b chik fight…
That works too.
Basically I was trying to convey the concept of a bypassed BMS without describing a whole new wiring diagram. Going straight to B- is fine too. I didn’t do a very good job, I was multitasking at the time and not paying as much attention as I could have been.
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thanks buddy!
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A little background, I am running the tbdd with maytech 100A individual vescs (HW 410 yeah I know they are old). During the initial build I probably spent a week trying to get canbus to work between the two vescs but never got it to work and eventually just went down the road of ppm splitting.
I just got a metr pro and was working on installing it last night and ran into a snag. I installed it on the uart on one of the vescs and set it all up to work but the metr was just not communicating with the vesc. I swapped it to the other vesc and without issue it connected right up and was ‘plug and play’ as advertised.
So, I am thinking that is why I could never get the canbus to work between the two vescs with the one having no communication out. I had taken the vescs apart and didn’t see anything wrong with them visually when I was troubleshooting the canbus issue.
Any idea if it’s just a lost cause or is it something that I could fix somehow? I would like to be able to use and see the data for both vescs on the metr.
Hey, I need a new computer because my GF is tired of me stealing her computer every time I need to do a detect.
I want to dabble with HFI, so that means VESCTool
Is there anything I need to stay away from or does it pretty much work with any PC?
I have a Mac that has served me well since 2010. Time for a new one anyway, I think I saw some sparks back there the other day.
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I know it works on pretty much any Windows or Linux machine. Dunno about Mac though.
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Any issue using “premium speaker wire” as phase leads?
I’m out of my normal 14ga but this looks and feels like high strand count and well insulated wire.
Silicone is preferred. Doesn’t matter if it’s “RC” silicone or “speaker” silicone, it’s all the same.
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these don’t exist, they are all the same, just different packaging
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If my cells are pretty out of balance will my DALY BMS balance them ( I assume this will just take a while ) or do they need to be pretty balanced when I hook it up?