You could copy the measurements other people use in their models:
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I would say these settings are pretty conservative 
Made sure to dial everything down for test runs.
Even so, I am getting up towards 80c on the motors and just wondering how I might be able to possibly reduce some heat but still up the power. Anyone have some suggestions for my vesc settings?
Set up-
12s8p 40t
Dual Tb6 Vesc
6374 maytech 170kv
72/16 gearing
8 inch pneumatics
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Need some help as bbman doesnt want to work for me. Can someone tell me waht htd5m belt I need for 15/60 teeth center to center 60mm. Thanks
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I cant seem to make it work either, I think there’s an issue with the way the page is being displayed, parts are missing.
Maybe try this one, it uses diameter instead of tooth count but should still work.
https://www.sudenga.com/practical-applications/figuring-belt-lengths-and-distance-between-pulleys
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No worries, happy to help.
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Hi All. I bought this connector to create a hall sensor connector extension for my maytech motors to unity. I think I pretty much know what to do. Connect the female connector to male and shrink wrap it. Then solder another male connector to the end. Anything missing or wrong steps?
LATTECH 10 Sets JST PH 2.0MM 6 Pin Female Single Connector with Flat Wires 200MM 1007 26AWG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IZWYK7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r1SnFbQ36J5P3
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Is there a way to figure out the max amps a motor can take, without considering the heat/losses?
Something to do with saturation, can’t find enough info on here though.
Using flipshit 6355 motors “rated” for 65A but… come on it’s flipsky. They can say 200A while looking at you with a straight face
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If you’re feeling risky you can cut the wires straight from the connector and solder from there. Less bulk when it’s done.
Remember to take a picture first and religiously respect the red, white and black wire positions plugging into vesc. Hall wires can be in any order
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Hm… is your temp sensor even working? Consumption doesn’t seem to translate into heat to the motor.
Are the motors actually hot when it says there 77°? You shouldn’t be able to touch them over 50-55° tbh.
Maybe beta value not set correctly, maybe no sensor at all. I run more amps on 6355 and they’re mildly warm
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Yes they are hot and before getting the metr I noticed a point when they were thermal throttling but didnt have a log for it. I feel like the motors temps are being read correctly as they are new motors but I am thinking my settings need a lot of improvement or I just need to stop gunning the throttle 
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How hot it it where you ride? Can you actually touch the motors when they are read as 70°+?
has anyone tried using two barrel jacks in order to connect two chargers and double your change amps? I ask because that style of plug is much more common in a group ride setting, easier to plug in two chargers than find one high amp charger with a compatible plug.
Why not make an adapter
This sounds like a bad idea to me… I don’t know if that’s really how that works, but the only way I could see it working is if they are exactly the same charger. Just get one higher amp one lmao
Or make the cable split into two at the end if you just really don’t want to get a new plug
if each one is fused does it really make much of a difference whether 10 amps is delivered via 2 vs 1 plug? My scooter has two charge ports for just this reason.
it’s about compatibility, I’d want to be able to use another’s or share my charge with another rider in a group
I mean who really knows, I just feel like the chargers would somehow interfere with each other’s charge curves
What is the big deal with just having a bigger one? By the time you carry two, you are at the same size anyway
Oh do you have a specific circumstance? I haven’t seen many DIY boards share the same charge port lol
I have seen: GX-16-2, SP something something, XT60, XT30, USB C, 5.5mm barrel, 3 prong, XLR, speakx, etc etc
I mean it’s not a bad idea if you had someone in mind - technically it would work, but IMO I wouldn’t personally do it. Although now that I think about it I have seen laptops with two power bricks before but I have to imagine they have some extra safety circuitry in them
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yeah I’m planning the logistics of a multi-segment long distance group ride where we’d need to be able to charge several boards at 7ish amps, using a bank of batteries out of the back of a support van.
I guess it’s probably easier to have a bunch of adapter cables, but I thought if most were using 5.5 then it’s fairly easy and cheap to mod with a second port
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