if I were to ship a Neo Jed Deck Lid to someone would they be able to model it and create a translucent Lid?
Also anyone know’s someone on the east coast that does fiberglass reinforcement or anything to make this deck safer?
Hello all, didn’t think I would go through asking again here but here I am, always possible to learn i guess
I’m wondering how you’re doing you parallel connections for 2 xt 60 to connect 2 single esc, something clean and small
I know the theory, but all my other trials where very bad lookin
Any foam packing material from trash cans, preferably closed-cell type, also neutral cure silicone
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Do you want the connectors together or separate? If together then use super glue to hold the connectors together, prep the input with a pigtail, then solder. If separate, make each connector a pigtail then solder
What’s wrong with HMA instead?
If you’re going for this:
This is pretty much it but make sure you turn these to a n instead of U in the image below:
If you need the wires, then just solder the wires accordingly as two positives and negatives into one of the XT 60. The solder job does not need to be perfect. You can just solder the two wires together, and then solder the conjoined wires into one XT connector. The wires do not have to be long. They can be as short as 6 inches.
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The cleanest and smallest i have seen done is from @Scepterr where he uses 2… yes just 2… 8mm bullet connectors. you can fit 2x 10awg in them from what i recall. maybe Max has a pic to show
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the only way I could fit everything in here, and yes one of the escapes is missing a cap, it’s fiiiine😋
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Hot glue? It’s heavy, it moves/flows if it gets hot 
but it’s alright, just not my preferred choice
Idk my hot glue gun needs to be max temp before mine moves, it will burn the crap out of you. Low melt temp isn’t great but I can’t imagine normal riding conditions in a non-load bearing area would be affected.
However, filling an enclosure would be annoying, I’d probably pick silicon too, along with foam.
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I’m changing the battery on my dual 6374 pneumatic board to the TB 12S4P 30q pack. I’m starting to worry that it’s going to be a little anemic with only 60a continuous current. What do you guys think?
60a will be fine. in over 1500km i pulled 80A once while going 50km/h up a massive hill just to test. (different battery)
Otherwise i’m always in the neighborhood of 30-45A.
210 pounds, dual 6374 on 8". Street and offroading.
With the 4p you technically can pull 80A but it will sag, but the safer rate would be 70A (guys, correct me if i’m wrong) 60 totally fine tho
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15A is the samsung rated amp for 30Q, but its rated for more than that, up to 20A safely as mooch tested, TB is just being safe to limit at 60A, this will also be the healthiest pack if balanced correctly, as u don’t pull max amps all the time.
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Great! So I can set the max battery amps for each VESC at 40a?
TB’s 12s4p is only rated for 60a cont. better only do 30a per side. u might get away with 35 per side but only if u pull full 35a no longer than few seconds before the BMS cuts off.
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I don’t get what you mean with n and U…
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with pliers, turn the pins so they are like in the photo. then just make a ‘‘bridge’’ of solder 
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When I look at the watt hours/km value in the VESC log visualizer is the number per side or for both vescs? I have 2 VESCs and see a reading of 14.7 wh/km. Is that the true number or is it 29.4 wh/km?
Is acetone best method to dissolve/ remove red loctite? The grub screw is stripped already, can’t get any more worse than that. Worst case scenario, I will just drill through the damn thing and buy new parts if I have to.