Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

any small metal that dropped into the tiny gap is gonna short it already

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‘’ none of these xt plugs male or female will allow a short they are designed to avoid shorts ‘’ is a direct citation from him.

I said that it don’t make sense, he has not answered yet and I don’t know if he will.

Mistakes happen, I just wish he offered to send me an adapter and admit his error.

@frame Yes, I 100% agree.

Maybe he was confused, to be fair it would be hard to get a short with a female xt plug

It would also be very hard to put it in backwards. That’s technically reverse polarity, not a short, but still.

If you really don’t want to bother soldering or rewiring anything, look for xt60/90/whatever you use to whatever your esc or antispark uses splitters.
You obviously need a parallel one that has 2 female heads of the assortment you need. They might be common on ebay for under £5

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Okay, even for me, a guy who is new to the entire DIY esk8 builds, knows for a fact that its the female side that does this since there’s no contact points.

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Here I go again. 6374 motors. I believe it’s m4 screws?

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You got it. It’s m4 screws.

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Well off to the hardware store I go :joy::grinning: ain’t got none :man_facepalming:

He acknowledged and apologized. His reason was that he installs plugs indifferently and include the other plug in the package. I asked him to only use female plug in his future packs. A shorted battery because of that wouldn’t only be the fault of a customer in my opinion.

I have to learn soldering I guess. :man_shrugging:

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Soldering is extremely easy. What’s gonna suck about soldering is not buying the right soldering wand. I learned that the hard way…

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I will have to do some research then. Any brand / model recommended ?

Hakko - yes they look like toys, but they are industry standard
Weller - High quality
TS-80 or TS-100 are both good (theres several brands but my TS-80 is a UY-CHAN I think)

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Game-changer for me.

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I went with the TS-100. Its smaller, but still really good. However, you have to power it with a barrel connector

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As the two said above.

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Thanks you guys. :ok_hand:

Sure sounds to me like something terrible Is happening. Please tell me this isn’t normal.

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Uy chan is the original
I know this as they’ve helped me in the past. Bought a clone without knowing and they actually helped me in my refund claim for counterfeit

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that sounded exactly like abs_overcurrent.

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Might be hard to tell because I have fault time set to 50ms

yeah IDK why my sensors seem to no longer work after my ride last night.

All that happened is I got loose motor can screws… I don’t see how that spinning would make the hall stop functioning properly. This motor noise sure sounds like the can is still loose but I see no scraping and no heat.

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