any small metal that dropped into the tiny gap is gonna short it already
‘’ none of these xt plugs male or female will allow a short they are designed to avoid shorts ‘’ is a direct citation from him.
I said that it don’t make sense, he has not answered yet and I don’t know if he will.
Mistakes happen, I just wish he offered to send me an adapter and admit his error.
@frame Yes, I 100% agree.
Maybe he was confused, to be fair it would be hard to get a short with a female xt plug
It would also be very hard to put it in backwards. That’s technically reverse polarity, not a short, but still.
If you really don’t want to bother soldering or rewiring anything, look for xt60/90/whatever you use to whatever your esc or antispark uses splitters.
You obviously need a parallel one that has 2 female heads of the assortment you need. They might be common on ebay for under £5
Okay, even for me, a guy who is new to the entire DIY esk8 builds, knows for a fact that its the female side that does this since there’s no contact points.
Here I go again. 6374 motors. I believe it’s m4 screws?
You got it. It’s m4 screws.
He acknowledged and apologized. His reason was that he installs plugs indifferently and include the other plug in the package. I asked him to only use female plug in his future packs. A shorted battery because of that wouldn’t only be the fault of a customer in my opinion.
I have to learn soldering I guess.
Soldering is extremely easy. What’s gonna suck about soldering is not buying the right soldering wand. I learned that the hard way…
I will have to do some research then. Any brand / model recommended ?
Hakko - yes they look like toys, but they are industry standard
Weller - High quality
TS-80 or TS-100 are both good (theres several brands but my TS-80 is a UY-CHAN I think)
Game-changer for me.
I went with the TS-100. Its smaller, but still really good. However, you have to power it with a barrel connector
As the two said above.
Thanks you guys.
20200804_143848
Sure sounds to me like something terrible Is happening. Please tell me this isn’t normal.
Uy chan is the original
I know this as they’ve helped me in the past. Bought a clone without knowing and they actually helped me in my refund claim for counterfeit
that sounded exactly like abs_overcurrent.
Might be hard to tell because I have fault time set to 50ms
yeah IDK why my sensors seem to no longer work after my ride last night.
All that happened is I got loose motor can screws… I don’t see how that spinning would make the hall stop functioning properly. This motor noise sure sounds like the can is still loose but I see no scraping and no heat.