My unity seems to factory reset quite often when the 10min timer runs out and it turns off 
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I have this theory as well. I never try to let my board time out for some reason and the 2 resets I’ve had have both been times where I felt like I forgot to turn it off.
Thanks for mentioning this.
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I let the timer run out all the time on my Unitys…
EDIT:
One on Unity FW
the other 2 on FW5.01
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Thanks for the call out, I do keep rethinking all of that.
My plan involves 12s5p p42a pack. so that pack itself can deliver all the pixies. The ESC is unity or possibly Dual Escapes. I think they can pull/ handle up to 120amps I likely don’t need to get there.
But i do think 90 amps. ( 45 / side ) is the bar I’d like to hit to at least match my nazare. but I’d like to push beyond that just not sure how far. I have been known to blast uphill 35ish mph 95% duty cycle for 30s to 60s. so I feel that means I should plan for some. very high currents. let’s say 110?
~110A is where the ratings acceptable 109A for 8 gauge or poor for 10 gauge.
but I realize theres a lot more to consider there as over building gets crazy too. it’s not like the unity has 8 guage leads and would I be upgrading those?
experienced viewpoints are welcome.
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It also depends on t he length of the leads, if everything is short then 10awg is probably fine, if you’re running split enclosures then aim for thicker…I would try to upgrade the Unity if you feel confident (I think it’s an easy job), but at least upgrade to XT90
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Suggestions for narrow channel trucks? I think Matrix II are 340mm or so on the hangar so less than that…290mm maybe?
Looking to buy a BMS for charge only/ balancing on a 10S pack, I’d like confirmation that this model is suitable
https://www.litechpower.com/product-detail/HCX-D140LI10S15A_07.html
Thanks!
Edit: looks like there’s a “D140” buried in the name, which seems to be a popular option
What is the reasoning behind doing hard solders vs clamp on connections for the batteries and escs? Clamp on seems easier to do and less permanent in case I need to swap out parts.
Like eye loops and a bolt? It takes up space and can come loose
D140s are solid just don’t get them wet.
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More for the wires connecting the battery to the esc and esc to the motors. Like just crimp on instead of soldering. My engineerbuddy mentioned it so im not exactly sure what part to search for online but it sounded easier to do
Alright guys. My friends Enertion raptor isn’t charging. I took a look and there are burn marks on the positive side of the connector where charging port meets bms.
I took some electronics cleaner and cleaned the terminals. No luck.
I am assuming it is the BMS itself.
If so, how can I address the issue/ find a replacement one?
Crimp connectors beefy enough to handle the required power are generally
A: larger
B: more expensive
C: require a specific, expensive crimping tool.
Soldering is smaller, cheaper, and uses a soldering iron which you really should already have anyway.
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Ok good enough for me. I just bought an iron and he taught me the basics but just figured id explore the option.
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Jst 2.0?
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Is it reallly… fakkkk I swear I thought ‘‘twas somethin
Else… alas I’m an idiot sooo…
U right thank you good sir 
It has some letter name too…jst-ph maybe?
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JST-PH-2.0 
Yessssss thx u sir r my hero
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