Those don’t look bad.
This one should be okay but monitor it
I’m not actually sure what is the max those motors can take
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Don’t do more battery amps than max motor amps.
For consumption get close but don’t pass the max burst ratings. Being 6p 30q it means 120amps but it’s never going to draw more than 90, the motor value.
For regen you can do double the fast charging rating (-48?), assuming you don’t intend to brake all the way down a mountain or something
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I keep seeing this being told but never seen an explanation as to why. Or what bad happens when you have it set that way.
Anybody?
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Cheers dude I run Motor detection again in foc and it changed the max currant to 150amps and is working a treat!! Also the max motor currant it changed to 77amps so just left it at that
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should be since i apply the same mode for both vescs.
need to calculate it first to tell for sure. Might do tomorrow
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I agree with @Venom121212
I don’t think it’s necessarily bad, but you won’t be able to draw more battery amps than “motor amps times 0.95” since 95% is the max duty cycle
However, using software in a manner that most other people do not, is going to expose you to a higher surface area of edge cases and make it a lot more likely you’ll be the person find the next bug in the software
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The formula gets more complicated because of things like phase angle between voltage and current and overmodulation (which is not implemented on VESC). The total real power is actually the dot product of the alpha beta voltages with the alpha beta currents times I think 3/2 if you use the magnitude invariant clarke transform.
In the three coordinate reference frame, DC bus current is the sum of each phase’s on time percentage multiplied by its corresponding phase current.
In an ideal world, more battery than motor amps should not cause any issues.
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Looking good so far. Best is to check backlash with mounted hub/wheel as well (just tighten the axle nut). If the hub is not 100% true like a lot of hubs you might have to tweak the backlash a bit. Just spin the gear and check backlash on different spots then you are golden.
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Got it…typos, thx
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Somebody tried this Hub motor conversion kit for cloud wheels on the Backfire Mini > https://www.icloudwheel.com/collections/diy-accessories/products/wheel-pulley-kits-for-cloudwheel-discovery-version ?
WAT. DA. FUKK. 
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Yeah bro, this is what real motor control and three phase power looks like 
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Right side is labeled B- and left side is labeled P-
I want to wire this as a bypass, can I get some help?
This came with no documentation
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Sounds like a charge/discharge vms from the same port then. Wire the P- to the charge port negative and direct leads ofd the battery for discharge if that’s what your wanting
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Okay that’s what I assumed, just wanted to be sure. Thanks.
There was an edge case for example where if you hit max throttle at speed you would suddenly get launched with the full battery amps as motor amps as well.
Not a gradient, just… 85… 87… 89… 90… 120…
It’s fixed as far as i know but it was quite the read for me lol
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How fine is it to run my Motors with more amps than stated if the temps allow it?
My Motors 2x 170kv 6374 got to 55-60c after riding 3km of steep hills up the castle
So technically i should be fine bumping the value even more?
Motors are rated up to 80A, i’ve set mine to 75A and reached 60.5A yesterday.
Super duper fine. Current generating heat kills motors. We need better air delivery to our motors though. It’s the next roadblock in our systems imo. Aside from a skateboard shaped battery of course.
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