Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Thanks! So that means either battery indicator or better remote.

Can street wheels i.e. Abec11 etc … fit MBS matrix II trucks ? If so, which bearings do I need ? MBS are 12 mm, bearings are 8mm , is that possible ?

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@Minimadness Just bought the last one. Thanks for the recommendation, I already bought a bunch of things from @EboardSolutions in the past and did not even checked his store before posting here… :+1:

@Athrx I went with 4A in the end, I was going by what was recommended by Alan who made my pack. :slight_smile:

Considering buying a prebuilt complete cheapie to be my backup board. @Linny how close is Arc to dropping? @glyphiks any ideas mate, a Stoke maybe? @BillGordon are you happy with your sExway, I’m considering a Flex Riot.

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You can find 12x22x7 mm bearings but they are quite expensive.

I’ve seen TB110’s on Trampa 9.525mm trucks with these bearings.

Though if you already have the Matrix II trucks then this doesn’t really help.

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Based on my experiences, I would feel confident saying that the Flex will meet your expectations.

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Unfortunately it might not be as soon as you’d like haha, still tying up loose ends and polishing them up. I’m meeting someone to ride and he has a Flex Riot, i’ll let you know if it’s good.

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My slave vesc is running 2 - 2.5c hotter than my master. Could it be different belt tension or in my case heat transfer?

Running Jedboxes with double heatpad (because we all know how good it made contact with 1 layer)

I conformal coated the pcb, around the fets too + a “thin” layer as suggested.

edit: same goes for the slave motor about 1.5 - 2c

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I’ve noticed the same with one of my setups.

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Jedboxes too or different vesc?

Escapes

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Don’t buy an Evolve prebuilt. Chargers, trucks, sure. But I would not buy a prebuilt from them.

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There are so many variables here I can’t say what it is — but I can say that the components used to measure the temperature probably have a 5% or 10% manufacturing tolerance like most electronic components. 1% maybe even if they are good components.

So it’s entirely likely, but not guaranteed, that one is not running hotter and it’s merely the measuring devices.

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Alright. Luckily not that much.

While we are at it…You remember my deodorant belt problem where the best result was to swap pulleys?

Its seems to be back but reverted? Before it was making sounds while throttling, now its primarily while coasting.

I’m currently using new, different motor pulleys than before.

That’s really weird. What is the common piece? The wheel pulleys?

of course you do know, stacking thermal pads to tighten up the heat-transfer is not the recommended method

what do you mean by that.

The motor pulleys should be at fault since i use the same belts, the same wheel pulley but new motor pulleys

I mean between all the setups you’ve had the weird belt noise on, what piece is common? If you’ve changed the belts and the motor pulleys, then are the wheel pulleys what are causing this? Maybe an alignment issue (the mounts)?

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Yep. Getting a part which actually fits its the way to go yes. But i currently don’t have the money or tools to make it like it should be.

@b264 No, everything is the same as before except the motor pulleys. Before i took my 1 1/2 month break i had cheap alu pulleys on there. Before i had the alu ones i used the TB pulleys which were the culprit in the first place. After changing them out to the alu ones the problems were gone. Now with the new motors i got new pulleys which installed and did the first test ride today = noise the alu ones didn’t have.

So far = Steel noise
Alu = no noise

I can’t get a better alignment since i use mounts with crossbars and the switch to fivestars took some space since the pulley sits deeper inside the hub.

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try to find some copper or aluminum shim stock and arctic silver that crap to the crappy Jedbored case…

fukk that case is awful…

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