I did, thats why i’m asking.
No one else will be able to answer the question better than the calculator unless they have that specific setup.
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Also, motor Kv could be off by 10% and frequently aren’t exact
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It’s the semi-first time I’ve used the calculator since i never actually change something except now the 170kv motors
I was a bit surprised by the 6km/h reduction by the new kv value and wanted to double check that it’s somewhat accurate.
i originally wanted to keep 190kv but must’ve missed the change to 170kv on the Group buy.
Torque is a value i absolutely don’t give a shit about.
Yeah I’ll have to figure out how to update metr pro. Unity is already updated
[quote=“xsynatic, post:3225, topic:30355”]
Torque is a value i absolutely don’t give a shit about
[/quote] no hills in Germany?
No traffic signals either 
Not really where i ride. Haven’t had a hill which my 190kv motors struggled with or where i missed having more torque.
170/190 is about a 12% difference in maximum ERPM. 12% of 48km/h is about 5.5, so yeah, that’s about right.
If you’re that concerned about it, go to a 17t motor pulley,the two extra teeth will give you ~13% higher gearing, putting you right back where you were.
Or you could drop from a 72t to a 62 or 64 tooth wheel pulley, if you can find them.
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That sounds like a plan. I could go 18t too, right? Or does that cause some other side effects compared to 17t?
I could get a 62t pulley from IDEA for 100€ i think. So for now the motor oulley variant is the way to go.
18t will even-further increase your speed, and even-further decrease your torque. Up to you if you want that or not.
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Have a weird question. What would happen if a sensor dies when running sensored? At high speed for example. Or intermittent connection, etc. But at high speeds, not slow. FOC, sensored.
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Your sensors aren’t used by the esc as soon as you exceed a specific rpm. Can’t tell you exactly at which rpm but over 10km/h they are for sure enabled
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I see. Figured as such. Interesting… Got some thinking and analysis to do then. 
Thanks dude.
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If it happens at high speed, you won’t even know it yet until you slow down. In fact, as @Andy87 mentioned, your sensors aren’t even used above a specific eRPM. At low speeds, you will definitely know.
If one sensor is knocked out, then it will be EXTREMELY jerky at low speeds, and you may have to kick push but once you get rolling it will usually go. It definitely will NOT go from a stop or get up to speed under its own power, but with a little help, as long as you can get it going fast enough, then the power will take over and keep you going enough to get home.
However, if a common power or ground is knocked out and all the sensors are gone, then you will likely not be able to limp home at all unless you can exceed the cutoff eRPM by kicking. The motor is unlikely to help at all, and in fact will just make it cog really bad if you apply throttle.
I’ve never NOT been able to make it home on a busted sensor, but sometimes it’s been rough.
Now I don’t use sensors at all, and I recommend not using them, unless you are in bindings or going offroad in the woods. Definitely not on a street skate.
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Just realized the recess in Paris hangers are a bit different. Which way is “right”? I’m assuming the deeper cavity goes board side so it rides slightly lower.
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If you look at its sides, one should have a bulge compared to the other. One “flat” one with a belly. The belly side is where the nut sits so outside
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Perfect, thank you
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Hello again from Austria🇱🇻
I bought a broken Yuneec first generation. The seller told me it does not charge. That can mean the charger must be changed or the whole thing is junk.
Any fixing tips?
Especially for opening enclosure