I have come to trust nyloc nuts a lot. I suppose that would work, but that’s really a place you don’t want malfunctions. Maybe use Loctite 290 instead, so you can apply it after getting it set to the correct tightness.
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So I see two different paths to go here.
The first path is “make this perform the best way possible” without regard to double-buying stuff or putting yourself in a corner later.
The way to make that work as best as possible would be to first swap the motor out for a 6374 that’s 270Kv or something like that. But that leads you directly to a dead-end, where making any further improvements later means you can’t use your motor.
The second, recommend upgrade path is to switch to something like a TB6380 190Kv motor which is going to be massive compared to that 5055 but it will work much better and have much more torque. You will just have a lower top-speed. Then you can stop there and ride it like that. But that also opens the door in the future if you wanted to upgrade it again at some point, you could start with the battery, put a 10S battery in there instead of a 6S, and prepare to have your mind blown. But you can wait until those cells wear out.
Cheers
BTW what ESC do you have? I’ve assumed some sort of VESC 4.12 in this recommendation.
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Well done. 
This string of posts deserves it’s own topic.
the whole balancing act took me a long time to understand because there’s a crap ton of “12s means more torque and more speed” comments out there. “12s is like turbo for your board” and other misinformation.
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Amazon 25ft - 1 inch Flexo PET Expandable Braided Sleeving - BlackBlue - Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074LQB3D1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_KcQNUdZd8wAzs
Does any one recommended these or other cable sleeves for phase and sensor wires?
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No, don’t get that one. That’s the one I have.
@Scepterr what is that one you sent me a small piece of? That’s much better
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What side is recommended for 10-12awg phase and sensor wires?
I think the 0.4 thumb-widths one, not sure as I’ve run out of it
what does the efficiency from the esk8 calculator mean, is it the motor? or your weight
What basic Bluetooth modules work on newest vesc fw? I have a hms10 but I couldn’t get it to work on new firmware or old (3.58)
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It’s the difference between theoretical speed and torque and real life. The bigger you or your wheels are, the more efficiency goes down.
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Well, 12S is about the max total power (W, W/hr) you can get out of a vesc, assuming the vesc is the bottleneck.
The only downside is shitter vescs don’t like it and you actually have to put 2 more stacks of batteries on top of a 10s.
If ya want more speed, use stickers and red paint 
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Try to avoid pet/petg, general crap like that. They cut if you look at them wrong, and their entire purpose is supposed to be to protect the cables.
What you’re looking for is nylon braided sleeve
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Nrf modules. Cheapest one i see around is flipsky one from @Anubis . You get way better delivery price from him, as he’s in uk
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this
You’re going to have losses in friction, MOSFETs heating up, wire getting warm, cells getting warm, motor heating up, wind resistance, and, perhaps the biggest one of all – wheel rolling resistance. Polyurethane longboard wheels will usually run somewhere around 90% efficiency, and pneumatic wheels will usually run around 70 - 75% efficiency in a modern esk8, I think
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They’re in series.
yep, the main thing I was considering was upgrading the motor, but just wanted to make sure battery setup would be ok
Thank you so much! This info was pretty helpful.
What about Flipsky motors (amazon)? have you all had good experiences generally?
The one has a large size and looks pretty good, but I do need to check for problems w/ wattage.
https://www.amazon.com/Flipsky-Brushless-Electric-Skateboard-Longboarding/dp/B083K8DQLN/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Flipsky&qid=1594075843&sr=8-5
I have an Enertion FOCBOX, which I think is a version of VESC 4.12. The battery setup I have is connected in series, so probably going to check how that would turn out.
The FOCBOX is a great ESC for that, and yes it’s a derivative of the 4.12
I can’t really say you should buy anything Flipsky, it’s a lottery.
If you do buy anything that says Flipsky on it, you must be prepared to buy it again. Is it really cheaper? Sometimes. Sometimes it’s more expensive and more annoying and takes longer and is more dangerous.
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