To avoid shorting adjacent pins as @frame mentioned, put your negative probe on a battery negative that’s far away from the balance lead and then only use the positive probe on the balance connector. Having two probes near each other is much easier to short stuff together if your hand slips, shorting neighbouring pins with one probe is definitely still possible but a lot harder because they’re somewhat guarded
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I’d guess NTC (thermistor) and communication with the onboard BMS. Many tool battery chargers won’t charge a battery unless they can talk to the onboard BMS and make sure everything is hunky-dory.
Depending on the tool brand, the onboard BMS may or may not be able to cut power/charging too, so just forcefeeding it often won’t work either - I know the Ryobi HP 2Ah batteries are that way since I’ve tried with them.
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Ok. So. If you were me and you wanted to chop/grind some ~11mm spheres of unknown metallic alloy into half spheres, how would you go about it?
@jack.luis @glyphiks
638 vs 648: in my experience they are equal as retaining compounds once cured, but 638 is significantly thicker in it’s liquid state. I find 638 easier to work with, though 648 probably has the benefit of seeping into cracks better.
Edit: specs say 648 is good for gaps up to .15mm and 638 is good for gaps up to .25mm. For us, this means 638 is objectively better for parts with not so tight tolerances(which should NOT be your motor shaft/pinion), and just a little easier to use imo.
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I’d epoxy or solder them onto a flat metal fixture or plate, and then grind away until they’re flat (watch temps, cool often). Then heat to melt the epoxy/solder to release the leftover halves.
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Does kerf matter? Do you need both halves, or is one half of each sphere sufficient? What tolerance do you need to keep?
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I would throw them away, get some bar stock of approximately the right size, chuck it in a drill and grind/file a hemisphere onto the end, then cut off the hemisphere. Repeat as needed.
Work holding with spheres is just fucking painful, and not worth the effort IMO unless they’re some whipshit unobtainium alloy crafted by nude greybearded virgins.
Or do something like what Frank said if you’re adamant about using the balls.
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I’ll have you know I held hands with several girls, so not quite.
A castrated man is not a girl Bill.
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you meant Gill Bordon?
My eyesight is admittedly not great, but I’m pretty sure Franklin ws a girl, Al.
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I’m not sure if I somehow fried the sensor port or I did it when I plugged in the Bt module into the can port (it was late and bourbon induced), but it was running VSS on 5.3 ok. Although it was reporting the voltage about 2v low on a 16s pack. Switching to 5.2 solved my voltage problem, but now it’s throwing overcurrent faults and hfi is extremely noisy with static. Anyone know if there’s any thing I can try to do to salvage this ubox or someone that repairs these things. I’m about 3 months out of warranty and only put a few test miles on it.
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I don’t know what’s wrong but (if you are comfortable doing it) definitely touch up those two solder joints and get rid of what looks to be a solder ball on the board (circled in blue).
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The upper left solder joints are the hall sensor ports that were damaged and honestly not sure about the lower right but it seems to lead to the 5v pin. Here’s what the port looks like. I’ve tested it with different motors and that port is dead.
Whoa…yea, something went wrong there…ouch.
Sorry, I don’t know enough about the Ubox to help any further. Good luck though, I hope there’s a fix you can do.
My vesc tool will not launch. The app icon shows up but the app will not open, just shows a black screen. I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled and get the same issue.
I’ve read that this happens and the work around is to use Linux os to run Vesc tool.
Any other suggestions?
Yeah I just need to cut two or grind 3 but it’s daunting. Lol. Found some perfectly puck button sized spheres at a thrift shop. But they’re just too thick to be comfortable.
Are you on Windows 10?
That happened to me once and the only fix that worked out of everything I tried, was using a different copy of Windows.
You could also make a bootable Ubuntu USB drive and use that to run the Linux version on the same computer.
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