If I set up my vesc through the Vesc tool on my PC (plugged in), can i later edit stuff through the Vesc tool on my phone? Or am i stuck to only making edits on my PC?
I’m using a Xenith on 5.2
You should not have any issues making edits on your phone later.
I find it definitely easier to do initial setup on the PC
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Great, thank you!
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1 vs 2 - for flexy deck (backfire ranger x2) with eboosted not so flexy fiberglass enclosure (evolve GT). I feel like I could probably rip #1 out of the deck if I bounced hard enough on it. Has anyone ever pulled inserts out by accident?
1 
2 
I’ve never pulled out inserts but #2 is 1000% easier to work with compared to #1 in my experience.
My flex deck has through bolts though. I only use #2 on a stiff deck, but I’m sure they’d be perfectly fine on a flexy one.
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Technically #2 is designed for thin sheet metal, but people have definitely used them in other instances
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I can’t recommend using 2 for anything but sheetmetal (that’s what they’re designed for). They’re designed to be crimped with a tool. They just don’t have enough surface area/features to ensure a good grip, and rely entirely on glue, which I personally wouldn’t trust.
1 is much better for wood or composites, and there are lots of minor variations in shape and thread pitch for different materials (hardwood, softwood, composites, etc).
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I use the m4’s of these when i skin a deck. Sand the barrel to give epoxy a bit more grab. Im sure it’d be fine with griptape too. Spendy, but nice and no worries of pulling out
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What’s the logic behind running the motor max higher than the vesc tool detection results? I’m not arguing with you just curious as to why it would be good to run them higher?
On the battery max I will take that into consideration and drop it a little lower. Especially as the cells are a little older now as well.
Because the motors are able to take more current than vesc tool thinks. Not sure what it bases the numbers off of but you can run most 6374 at 100a or above I’d wager
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Yeah, what @ShutterShock said. Also, after trying many things, those numbers I suggested are what make the skate feel more fun to ride while also lowering failure risk, in my experiences.
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Thanks for the explanation, will try it out. Thank f*ck for the mobile app so I don’t have to keep on unscrewing my esc enclosure!!
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i was emailing boardnamics about mounting their gear drives in reverse. he said reverse mount is more likely to get hit by rocks 
. not in my experience. any thoughts?
I have mine mounted out the rear and the bottoms have had all of the paint beaten off by rocks
after about 1500km mind you
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Reverse mounted motors get destroyed at least twice as much as forwards in my experience.
In fact, forwards mounted motors, in my experience stay mostly untouched, while reverse, end up looking like this:
It’s weird, but it’s just how it goes. Of course, if they’re on a mountainboard they’re very far from the ground so that doesn’t count.
If you want your motors to stay pretty, forwards mount them like he says. In addition, yes, more likely to have baseplate issues if you try to reverse mount those street drives
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Forward mount is shielded by the enclosure. Backward mount is directly lined up with where the wheels will kick debris. But which is better entirely depends on the build. For shorter boards, backward mount is superior as it leaves you more enclosure room. For longer boards, it makes more sense to forward mount, since you aren’t shopping for space. But that isn’t the only balance you’re playing with. Forward mount generally offers less height clearance than backward. And backward offers more available mount length, which is easier to deal with.
So, with all that accounted for, forward mount is generally safer, besides clearance height, but backward leaves you a lot more to work with otherwise. If space constraints are for any reason a concern, backward is better. Otherwise, forward is generally better.
Oh, and if you cage your motors, backward is immediately the absolute winner. That covers all the problems.
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BNM1 really needs a cage
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It’d need a bit of a rework, or a pressfit cage. I don’t trust the idea of a pressfit cage, and I don’t mind some shredded cans anyways, I consider them an inevitability.
Know what? When I finish this build I’ll nano ceramic coat the living hell out of these motors, as much as I can manage without opening a new bottle. It shouldn’t affect thermals enough to do any damage… hopefully. And it might provide the equivalent of a nano coated motor cage.
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Wait, duhh, this one’s going forward mount lmfao nevermind I’ll make the next shortboard the test rig for that idea xD
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To all chain drive users - how often do you lube your chain? Whenever I lube them they’re nice and quiet for the first ride, but every ride after that they’re loud AF. The first ride could be less than 5 miles long, and it’ll still start screaming the next ride. I use a dry bike chain lube because it’s what I have on hand, and let it dry properly before riding. Trying to determine if the noise is indicative of the lube shedding off in five miles, or just natural chain noise that gets dampened when there’s some errant wax on the sprocket/rollers.
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