Without sensors low speed control isn’t as efficient, more power is used to get the motors started from a standstill in sensorless mode, this is amplified by the rider “slowly” applying throttle (not instantly maximum throttle).
Whether it be voltage sag or capacity loss, the resulting voltage of your battery after a sensorless acceleration will be lower than from a sensored acceleration.
Voltage of the pack (SoC) dictates your potential top speed. A 4km/h speed difference seems reasonable.
Nope that’s not how acceleration or VESC sensors works
Sensors increase smoothness not efficiency
If anything, ramping up gently wastes less energy because resistive losses are determined by the square of the current
The battery loss after a single acceleration is functionally zero, there’s no loss in top speed there. The sag is also identical, there’s no difference between pushing 50A through a motor at top speed, it’s the same no matter if the start was jerky or not
Even if for some reason it was less efficient getting to top speed, and you lost a measurable amount of battery, and all of this was both right and very extreme: 4mph (6.4km/h) is 22% of the top speed and absolutely does not “seem reasonable”. Everything about this is wrong
So after redoing motor dection and not paying special attention while selecting wheel pulley i caught myself using 66 instead of 60 and now its back to normal
Havernt rode it yet but ill report back as soon as i do. For what its worth it sounds stronger at full throttle so it couldve been another setting that i changed too im sure its me
I will be building a battery pack consisting of 120x 21700 5000mAh batteries, a lot of juice.
The pack will be only 4S, so balanced cells are needed, for that I need to test every single cell and assemble them accordingly for ideal balance.
Are there any quick 8+ channel charger/testers?
Maybe a nord-lock washer could help. And definitely try blue threadlocker if you haven’t already. Heck, you could even try red, it’s removable with heat after all, and if you have your angle set permanently then why not.
Cheers, I actually bought a set recently so I was just looking for information from other users on here about what pressure people use them at, how long they last, any problems I should look out for
That trick is called a 360 FS No comply. I hate even doing a 180 and cant imagine doing it on a ramp but maybe that helps since you’re already turning.
I have heel straps on both boards and only use them for tricks or riding in the woods/snow. If I’m just cruising grass or street, I flip the heel straps up over the front bindings and leave them loose and they don’t bother me. I want to make a crocs comparison but I morally refuse.
If I’m bailing at speed, I need those heel straps off so that I’m not dragged with the board. For this reason, I never keep my front bindings so tight that they lock me in except for when using heelstraps. Otherwise, I keep them just loose enough that I can slide my foot in and out like a foot stop and can still get the benefit of leaning extra hard on the turns.
Invest in some decent knee elbow and hip pads. It tends to slide you out a bit more on falls instead of rolling so hard shell protection does well for street. If I’m at the dirt park falling, I try to get low quick and just slide it out so my body isn’t twisting when the board can’t.
I really like the tsg downhill elbow and knee pads, lazyrolling armored pants (RIP Daniel), and hillbilly impact shorts for summer. Saved me a lot of skin.