Ah yah forgot to mention this before but basically I always keep a small glass jar with some acetone in it near by when using brushes for epoxy or conformal coating, the acetone will typically thin out whatever is on the brush. Probably best to do in well ventilated area since who knows what kind of chemical reactions might be going on there but in general just shaking the brush in acetone will keep it limber at least if you do it while in use, for already stuck on can try soaking in acetone but hit or miss it dissolves any glue helping hold bristles in or otherwise messes up the brush itself.
Generally would say these are going to be throw away brushes though so don’t use anything nice.
that’s what i assume will happen. The brush that came with it feels like plastic. But good to know that acetone works. I think i have some fine paint brushes i can use.
Looks like after changing bearings and riding it a bit the problem came back I have the bearings in there pretty good not sure why it’s giving me trouble
Maybe bring a microphone in a methodical way to the different parts you think it could be and record it while spinning. On playback, you’ll be able to hear it louder as it is where the problem is.
It’s what I did when mine did a weird click at the beginning of my build
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can reflash your b6 with the open source ChealiCharger firmware. I did it to my HK Accucell 6 and I’ve been very happy with it.
Programming a new setup… Every time i turn on the remote the motor goes to full speed. If i throttle down i can control/stop it but cant figure out whats happening. Vx2 remote for v 4 with a Flipsky 4.12 vesc.
Good news the battery works but cant figure out the remote. when i use the ppm “input wizard” I dont see a response in the app. already tried to re-pair remote. It also looks like the wires match up… Can i update firmware on remote? Should i Downgrade vesc firmare?
only one vesc
light blinks on receiver until remote is turned on, then stays solid blue
light on vesc turns bright until you push down on speed control
When trying to look at ppm input in vesc tool make sure to activated/toggle the RT APP button to start streaming the realtime data from the app/control input.
I coat the directFETs with MG 419C and then after that dries, coat everything but the top of the FETs with MG 419D.
But you can’t get 419C anymore, so I guess if I didn’t have any left, I would maybe thin some 419D with acetone or something else that evaporates quickly
419C is very, very thin like water and dries in like 10 seconds. But it’s discontinued.
I haven’t ever put a full coat of 419D on there because it seems too thick to me. I haven’t noticed a difference between 419C and nothing, but I run conservative settings.
Not a noob question, just want some advice/opinions
How should I do the power leads on this? For lack of option I am thinking I solder the leads of the FocBoxes end to end over a XT90 and have a T connection that gets JB Welded through a hole where the vent was, but that sounds awful
The guy who sold me these completely fucked up the wires on this so I desoldered the phase leads so I can reterminate in fresh 14 awg with an MR60 and removed the PWM leads because I’ll use UART and CAN anyway (they were all frayed and damaged)…but I can’t remove the power leads since they are covered in silicone and wedged between the capacitors so I had to cut the XT and bullets (god forbid he use the same connector) to get to clean wire
Ideally the input XT90 sits aligned with the loose one so that I can run the wires through the foot bindings but the middle works too
What Brian said. And if you need more room for wire than the XT60/XT90 offers, I’d suggest maybe adding a small chunk of copper bus bar to the XT60/XT90, to give you enough room to solder all the wires to.
I’d say go with an XT90 for dual if you’re gonna be pulling more than say 50A for more than a quick sprint up a hill, but honestly it’s all up to your preference. I like big connectors if I have room.