In the past I’ve usually either just used PerfBoard, or soldered wires directly to the pins. The only exception was the one on my ebike, which needed some extra filtering anyway so a quick order from JLCPCB was a good call for that one.
There is a variant of that 10w one that is already on a little PCB with screw terminals for input and output if you want to save some work for yourself - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Inc/PDQE10-Q48-S5-T?qs=w%2Fv1CP2dgqqtQ8KoTyjtSQ%3D%3D
Does anyone run dual motor on diagonal wheels if so why/why not?
My first board was dual diagonal for space reasons - The motors and trucks I was using meant that there was no way they would both fit on the back.
You get a bit of weird power-steer when you accelerate or brake hard (the board kinda wants to crab sideways a bit), and of course it’s more of a pain to wire.
I would rate it “doable, but avoid if possible.”
Long wires. That’s why they aren’t as popular, in a nutshell. Also, less predictable/manageable behavior. I don’t like single drive at all. Most of the problems with it are amplified in a dual diagonal setup.
In perfect conditions, it’s a good idea. You will never run into perfect conditions in the real world. As such, I prefer predictable behavior.
So the only other option for larger motors is larger trucks with an increased turning circle then?
Or, dual shaft. The sacrifices of one motor running two wheels are far more ignorable.
Thanks I’ll have a look into that
I’ve ridden a dual diagonal setup. It worked well, but, just like a single drive, there will be some very clear downsides. Torque drive/losing power will show up when cornering hard, and present itself in a way that’s hard to adjust for, while riding. And it maintains what I call the single drive shuffle, where your board does a very specific wiggle when you let off the throttle. It also makes maintainenc, setup, and every step in between, more work. And doesn’t really have an upside. It’s not necessarily a bad plan, but I would still advise against, unless you have no choice and are prepared to learn to adjust to it.
Or run one rear mount motor and one inward mount motor on same truck if you’ve got room with enclosure
Truck width shouldn’t really affect your turning radius afaik
Larger trucks don’t actually increase the turning radius as long as they’ve got the same kingpin angle and the same amount of lean (determined by bushings).
The wheelbase (length between front and back trucks) does affect turning radius.
Here’s a cute little Mean Well
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/NSD10-48D5?qs=l0g2inPJSHOjAvop%2Fw4k6A%3D%3D
(2" x 1" x 0.4")
Looks like intended to be board mounted, but I guess you could solder to those pins?
It should be mentioned that those are +/-5v, so you’re limited to 1.5A or 1A per rail rather than 2/3A.
If you only use the positive rail, then you’re effectively limited to 5 or 7.5 watts, rather than 10/15.
I’d argue that the perceived increased turning radius from wider trucks comes from the fact that you can’t get the same lean with the same amount of effort on the same bushings due to the longer lever. Most people get bushings suited to their weight, and when they swap hangars but not the bushings, it’s going to lean less.
So basically the same thing you said, except we’re keeping everything constant except hangar length.
Anyone know what the stepped pin looking things soldered to this pcb are?
Pogo pins maybe?
The datasheet linked to above tells all…those are the input, output, and control/trim connections.
Look solid
for stacking pcb while still having a connection?
Basically pin/standoff combo. This module is designed to go face-down on a PCB or socket. They both make electrical connections, and mechanically support the module.