It has been done in the past on SK3 motors. The only difficulty really is securing the wires for the hall sensor effectively, Imo
You basically just have to epoxy a hall sensor at the three locations 120 degrees apart, then run all the wires out. How much space is inside the motor makes a difference too, SK3’s happened to have tons of room. I haven’t done this myself but it seems easy enough
Want to set up my vesc tonight/tomorrow for the first time! Are there any (important) things I need to keep in mind about for example the settings? Or a link to good information? I have seen some videos on YT already 
I did it once
Bigger pain then I expected as I had to deal with small wires which got destroyed quite easily
I’m def not the best man for precision jobs though
Def possible but requires patience and being careful
I want to upgrade an old sk3 aswell, do you have any resources or info on what sensors to buy and how to wire them up by any chance? 
Duty Cycle Current Limit Start must be set to 85% for esk8 use
that’s if u r not using latest vesctool software, others can add more
In the latest fw release thats automatic why you select eskate in the motor detection.
Has noone an idea? Then I’m just gonna go for it, fuck it. 
Unfortunately not at my fingertips but like @b264 I think there’s still some on builders
Feel free to create a thread and transfer over some info
Thanks for the advice 
also, don’t set both esc to have same id number if u r using canbus, leave them alone.
if you use a wizard
I just found this
63mm variant out of stock though -_-
Aw too bad, that would have made it so easy lol
I did 12s FOC with 4.12 on my mtb for years, would do it again 
8s? Go for it.
Maybe I just order the 50mm variant and bend the sensors a bit lol
Thanks for the reassurance
Is it bad to balance wheels by putting the weight on the inside of the hub so it’s pressed in place by the tubes?
Unities are 4.xx, not sure how much the modifications and development Jeff did impacted that specifically, but FOC 12S unities are pretty damn common.
Veeery second hand info, but I’m sure I’ve seen people at 12S FOC be told to either go 12S BLDC and hold their breath, or go 10S FOC recommended. Absolutely no testing of this advice, but since you’re asking for anything at all
Edit: actually pretend I PM’d you this, I’m gonna delete it in an hour or so so it doesn’t get left in the permanent record for a noob to find
That is pretty good info I think
I used to run a TB 4.12 back in the day on a 12s 190kv build. It worked fine on 12s BLDC, but I put a hole in the DRV chip on 12s FOC just testing on the bench. That was ~2017/2018 and I’m not clear if newer firmware fixes that issue or not. The recommendation (before the v6 existed) was to only run 10s FOC or 12s BLDC on any v4
I havent heard of any issues from it yet, and ive seen a lot of people say they did exactly that. Smooth them edges down tho. XD