Testing your knowledge 
Like a club sandwich. Epoxy on deck. Fabric. Epoxy. Fabric. Epoxy. Peel ply. Bleeder.
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Yes, but if you’re vacuum bagging, all of those happen in quick succession, before going into the bag to cure. You shouldn’t need to mix up three batches of resin, because all three operations should be fast enough for the pot life of a single batch.
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I thought you need to since you mix it up, get a certain gram or ratio needed. Since your putting it onto the board, you wouldn’t have enough for all three unless your just dabbing the brush in there like paint and just doing it one by one. Sound like a dumbass since I’m just learning about the process. Maybe in some black magic way it all goes on with one single go
"Our standard 2 to 1 mix hardeners are our slow hardener 606 and our fast hardener 610. All hardeners are designed to be mixed by volume. The fast hardener is very fast (pot life of a 3 oz. mass at 77 F is less than 8 minutes). Working cure strength for most applications, using fast hardener, is achieved in 6 to 12 hours at approx. 77 F.
The slow hardener is very slow (pot life of a 3 oz. mass at 77 F is more than 25 minutes). Working cure strength, using slow hardener, will take about 24 to 48 hours at approx. 77 F. 606 hardener should be used in temperatures above 60 F."
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Im using the 127 epoxy and 606 hardener
It soaks the fabric. Make one big batch with enough for three fabric layers.
Once mixed, pour it into a shallow bowl rather than a deep cup to reduce the exotherm which can speed up the kick (and cause you issues)
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You can mix up a full board’s worth, then split it up into three containers, to reduce the heating effect.
You can also keep the epoxy a little cooler to slow the pot life, and then warm the whole thing back up once it’s in the bag. Not too much though, or it’ll get thicker and less good at wicking into the fabric.
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Just by putting the bag in a warm room it’ll heat back up. Yea I’ll have to research tonight about the epoxy and everything. Appreciate the help and I’ll let you know what happens
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I haven’t used roarockit bag system, but would suggest regular checks on bag to ensure it is holding a suitable vacuum.
I use a diaphragm pump with control valve (which can cycle on and hold a certain vacuum level) so the system has some (small) tolerance for bag leaks - but without that, it’ll ideally need to be perfectly sealed to stay under vacuum
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Oh yea, Roarockit bags are solid, they got a very tight seal, even saw a video of a guy using it for the carbon fiber and it turned out amazing
So related to the @SabreDynamics blades and (I think I’m remembering right) @janpom 's printed curve for the granda Plata, has anyone got experience with printing a kicktail?
I’ve got a couple of decks from EBS that are symmetrical ~35", cutouts for wheel clearance, stiff, no drop or arch but some concave, marketed as just “ESK8 decks”. Sorry I’m out of the house and the links have been removed from their store, I’ll post pics when I’m home. I had a lot of fun with them with just calibers and a single 6355 before I grew out of it, and I’d like to try drilling a new set of holes in the back that are shifted 5-10cm forward and print a kicktail “sleeve” that could slide on and bolt into 2 of the old truck holes to make it more fun for getting around town
I have 2 of them and one was like €12 with an enclosure so I’ll survive if it doesn’t go well. I also have some 96A TPU that prints pretty well
When looking at VESC RT data, it only shows values for a single side right? So if it says I used 100Wh, I would have actually used 200Wh on a dual motor board?
Click on that post, it’s the whole process in a nut shell
I also suggest reading through Ross and Al’s tutorials on the freesk8 forum
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Hi there, what adhesive is used to adhere the batteries/components onto the board or case. Any safety issues regarding thermal dissipation during charging & usage of the board?
People don’t generally glue their batteries to the deck/enclosure. AFAIK the most common practice is to use high strength Velcro.
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I use double sided thicc gummy tape on both sides of the battery.
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What about adding foam around the other electronics as well so their protected or that’s just overkill
I add foam anywhere there’s free space. closed cell foam will be the best.
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I also use closed cell foam and try to fill up all the free space and then also use RTV silicone where things touch one another to make sure there won’t be any rubbing, which turns into abrading, which turns into shorts
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