i don’t think any but me is bitching about it, it ain’t about the use of temp sensor, but how sensorless still require sensor, be it hall / as5047 or whatever.
if it doesn’t work completely without temp sensor, then its not sensorless, if it works semi-ok without temp, but depends on setup / motor or whatever, then as u said HFI already exist, why even bother with VSS
just my rant, don’t take it too serious, im still gonna use sensor until there is a true sensorless better than HFI comes along.
Because VSS is claimed to be better than HFI, only needing to utilize temp - allegedly
I don’t intend to use either, because sensors are still better, HFI is annoying and inconsistent to setup, and VSS requires (right now) a Trampa esc, I think.
HFI on newer vesc architectures is nearly perfect and you can even start from a standstill up a hill, so yeah I’m not quite sure what place VSS has. Maybe if you have a motor with a fried hall sensor and a functional temp sensor? I know this is a possible situation but this push for VSS/ASS as a big feature is confusing as the use case seems very small.
Hmmmmm maybe that was it then. Idk I still love my sensors though but if they fail and it works well then it would be nice to at least have an option to fall back on
Right, so I am currently deciding what motor to get.
I am running a 12s8p battery, a stormcore 60D ESC, 12 tooth motor pulley, 45 tooth wheel pulley, 115mm wheels.
I don’t wanna go fast, but I wanna go uphill at speed, so high torque trumps speed.
I am pretty sure I wanna go for a flipsky 63100, the motor comes in 140, 170 and 190 KV. question is: as I understand Torque = low KV. So should I just go with the 140kv one?
12 tooth motor pulley is a miserable experience because there are very few teeth in contact with the belt so it skips like hell. Lowest I’m comfortable with is 14, higher recommended where possible
Once you’ve ruled out/fixed red flags like that, pick a desired top speed and use the ESK8 CALC button at the top of the site to mix and match parameters that hit it. That combination of 140Kv, 12T and 12S gives <32km/h max which is unusable for most people.
As you seem to already know, sticking with the lowest speed that’s good enough for you will give the best torque (and efficiency)
Lower Kv motors use more turns of thinner wire, so they have higher winding resistance and worse efficiency (well a different kind of inefficiency, but for most applications unless you pick it for a specific reason, it’s worse efficiency). There’s someone who gives a good detailed explanation of this if you want, I think it’s @MysticalDork
My 2c; go for minimum 14T motor pulleys and 170Kv. If you and I interpret “low speed” differently your starting point could be higher again, say 190Kv and 15T. Also 63100 is imho overkill unless you want crazy torque at crazy speeds
I got 14 tooth with the motor mounts, so I might as well try those. Ordered the 12 tooth later - might give them a try and see for myself, but thanks for letting me know about that skipping issue.
30km/h are PLENTY for me. I doubt I will ride faster than that (especially since driving anything above 25km/h is technically illegal). I can always change pulleys later on, but I still need the torque.
The way I understand it: If the Esc can take the erpm, the higher KV motor is actually better, as it is more efficient, due to the thicker copper wire you mentioned.