plug into a pc, see if it reads the setting file inside, if it doesn’t, then its toast
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I tried a different cable, now the PC says USB device not recognized. Also the screen stays dark. I guess this means toast? @frame.b022
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That explains everything.
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please can you stop talking rubbish
i sold him a working product
have already told him if it doesnt work i will refund
it left my house working
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If you’ve checked the pcb, open it back up, put power to it, start @ the power port and trace down where it loses power. Could possibly just be a wire broke off in the port. Just spitballing
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its possible, maybe open it up and see if the dc port or usb port have any issue?
does the screen turn on at all? when dc powered or just usb
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I already did, no there wasn’t any issue I could see.
Nope
Nope on both.
That won’t work, because its also not turning on properly while being connected to just USB. I think the memory is fried, because windows regognizes it as a device that is unable to identify itself.
I’m currently deciding what to buy the flipsky enhanced anti spark or just use normal xt-90s loopkey. What do you guys suggest?
maybe try to reflash the firmware and see if it works? i found something on github: GitHub - Ralim/IronOS: Open Source Soldering Iron firmware for Miniware and Pinecil
althought i’ve never heard of the ts100 bug out and isn’t readable
I can’t flash the firmware, for that I would need to access the memory. Its bricked for all that matters. I found some tips on google who said that switching the stm32 board should help, but good luck find that.
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then i don’t know what else to try, maybe others will know
Most large BLDC motors use multistranded wire to make the winding easy.
Basically they don’t have many turns, usually in the range of 5-20 or so (more windings = lower KV), and if you wanted to fit as much copper as possible in the stator with a single solid wire, it would be a very thick wire that would be ridiculously stiff, and hard to wind.
So what most motor maufacturers do instead is to bundle together a bunch of thinner wires with a total cross section equal to the one big wire, and wind all of those instead. Same reason we like nice flexible silicone wire with lots of strands.
All this to say, no it really doesn’t matter exactly what the AWG of the wires you use are. What you want is the maximum possible amount of copper, while still having the right number of turns.
You can use two or three thicker wires, or like twenty or thirty super thin ones, as long as you get the turns and cross section right.
To figure out the cross section, you can measure/calculate the area of the stator slot, and then divide that by the number of turns you have to fit on there, then divide that by two (two sets of turns share one slot), and then divide that by the packing factor of 0.906. This will give you the absolute theoretical best-case amount of copper you can possibly fit in there, and you should probably shoot for about 70-85% of that.
Then you can divide that area per turn calculated above into however many strands of whatever gauge wire you have.
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I suggest a loopkey.
Pros:
Simpler
Cheaper
Less chance of failure
Super easy (and CHEAP) to replace if it ever DOES fail
Cons:
Might not look quite as fancy or clean as a shiny button.
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A loop key is a great fallback mechanism or hard disconnect. You can certainly use both, put the loopkey on the battery side of the antispark switch. Then it’s only in case something breaks or you need a hard reboot or to store the skate for months. You can also bury the loopkey in a place where it’s less ugly if you want to.
But if I had to pick one, right now, it’d probably be the loopkey. But you don’t have to pick one and loopkeys are crazy cheap.
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wow never thought about that. I will try that. Thank you!
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The angles work. I’m going to set it up DKP at first for the sake of curiousity, but the goal is to move to a TKP arrangement down the road.
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You da best, Bill
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Hey guys, anybody know what the best vesc options are currently? Couldn’t find any good threads on it atm. Also, is a dual vesc easier to setup than 2 singles? I tried to setup dual vescs a while back and couldn’t get it set up
Hey guys, I was trying to setup dual vescs a while back and was doing throttle mapping and somehow it activated the motor and the board went full speed into my wall and ripped the usb-c cord out of the vesc… long story short the usb-c port is loose and unusable. is there a way to setup this vesc via bluetooth? Or could i use it without doing the setup process via vesc tool, my battery has bms and I watch batt % while riding so i wouldn’t need the vesc batt cutoff. Also anyone know the easiest tutorial for dual vesc setup bc i obviously messed up. had problems setting up dual and just went to 1. but in winter i ride with pneumis and would really like dual bc pneumis are so dam slow