what kind of person would stick a metal into a charge port
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Ive never had any problems providing the fuses are rated properly. I use a 10A fuse with an 8A charger without problem (Edit: it gets a little warm for my liking, the extra head room from a 12A should run a lot cooler).
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Tell him this would’ve happened without a fuse.
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Thanks a lot gonna install a 15amp now
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… 
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In your case I’d make an exception and send one to the UK, but it’d still be a LOT faster if you found one locally.
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Hey now, I’ve done that
hangs head in shame
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Nah I got a ton of fuses just not sure how many amps I need
Do I go low or really high?
I went for a 10amp fuse in the end
This is a difficult question. Let me take a stab at it.
The rating means jack squat. They’re mostly for marketing but have some basis in fact.
The actual physical ratings of a motor will be in temperature (degrees) and speed (rpm) that the bearings and rotor can deal with. The latter one we rarely face issues with in esk8. So basically, temperature.
The amount of copper in the core helps keep the DC resistance of the coils down, which reduces heating for a given current. This is largely what the wattage ratings are based on: stator size.
Which magnets are used also affects this, as some magnets can be hotter than other ones before they begin to permanently demagnetize.
So basically, it’s difficult to know, and most results will be empirical, and largely affected by how you use it, and how much cooling it has. I feel like it’d be easier to cool inrunner motors, but I don’t know.
The bottom line is, everything else the same, MORE COPPER is definitely MOAR BETTER.
If you want more details you’d probably need to start a thread and tag someone like Hummie.
Someone please correct this if anything is wrong. (Cunningham’s Law at work)
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excellent opener.
Sold. closed. ABC. always be charging. (huh?)
thanks. I like this take on it.
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Someone help me if this is wrong, but I feel like when you do a motor detection on a VESC, like a Torqueboards VESC or a FOCBOX VESC or LaCroix VESC or Flipsky VESC, these numbers you get
I: 79.93A
R: 9.40mΩ
L: 4.09μH
λ: 3.76mWb
Better motors should, I think, produce smaller R results, but not small R result and small L results together.
So maybe small R and larger L results may indicate a higher wattage motor.
I’m not too sure about this. Larger L values may just be caused by a lower Kv which isn’t the same thing as motor wattage.
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Larger L values indicate more iron in the core (harder to saturate), and also more turns (both of which help lower the KV, yes.)
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Can’t get the nut off the axle, turns very effortless but won’t come off / increase distance from wheel
What to do?
What hanger is it?
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TB218 @b264
Pushing the wheel away from the axle while lossening the nut changes nothing sadly
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I personally would try two things.
- take apart the bearing. This may be down to luck depending on which way the cage/retainer is turned. If the cage happens to be on the inside, it may be difficult to disassemble. You could attempt to push the cage inside the wheel hub. If the cage is on the outside, this should be easy.
and definitely first take a few bearings apart (and put them back together) that aren’t inside a wheel so you are very familiar with how it works. This is probably more important than it seems
-
cut the hanger. This isn’t reversible. Cut it as close to the wheel as practical (within reason) without damaging the wheel. It’s likely the axle is damaged anyway, so maybe not much loss here. More risky to the wheel though, and that’s an unobtainium set of wheels. Then you should be able to pull the remaining axle out or put a slit in it like this except without the first cut.
-
You might be able to use a dremel or another tool to cut the nut, but I don’t recommend this approach.
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No other option that’s not as fatal?
I would prefer to just get the nut off and maybe destroy it by doing so…
No way for this?
Taking apart a bearing is extremely cheap, if it works.
Then at least you can try to deal with the nut without a wheel in the way.
Money can rebuy all those parts though except the wheels. Those you want to salvage if at all possible.
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Why would you advise against dremeling the nut in half?
Heat works but not sure what would happen if you heat plastic
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