Go for the higher gear ratio (5.2:1), and then use a higher KV motor / higher voltage battery & ESC to compensate for the speed. The higher the gear reduction, the less work your motors will have to do to give you the same amount of torque. 
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Thank you rusins
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much better than before, but i personally would also add more solder so they also fill to the end of both sides, kinda like a big blob of solder when its done
don’t forget about the heatshrink
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Won’t gonna go on the side as I haven’t put the bullet connector on yet
Just making sure it’s ok before doing the others
Will add a bit more solder
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looks to me like you havn’t pre tinned the wire. this is step one. step two you join the wires together using pliers or alligator crimps. if you try a mesh splice then you’ll need a lot more heat.
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Sadly don’t own any flux at the moment
So trying a mesh splice
Did 400c and solder melted into the wire pretty well
keep applying the heat until the wire soaks up the solder
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You need flux.
For pre tinning wire ends, i apply flux to wire end (without cutting casing) then heat up wire and melt solder onto the end. It wicks up the wire below the casing.
When cool, cut casing back and you have a neatly tinned wire end.
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Thanks gonna order
Will keep applying heat
And hopefully can get a perfect joint soon
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Thanks @PixelatedPolyeurthan @xsynatic and everyone else (can’t remember everyone) got some awesome joints done
Don’t have pics cause I only remembered after I heat shrinked
But they had soaked up a ton of solder
I left the iron on the wire (mesh splice) at 400c for 30sec and then when I pushed in a bit of solder it went straight into the wire
They ended really nice and not much crunch
Thanks again everyone
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quote from spintend topic anyone can give any advice
Better, but still wayyyyy too cold. See the line circled? That means the solder wasn’t hot enough to melt to itself, let alone to the wire underneath.
You want to see that blob of solder all melted all at once, and soaking into the wire strands. You should not see any strands without a coating of solder on/between them.
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I know literally everyone but me says that. But I’ve been soldering without flux for 30 years. I have it, but I never use it. The solder with flux in the middle has always worked enough for me. Maybe this should go in the confessional.
Actually scratch that – when I go to the factory and use the surface mount workstation, I use liquid flux. But not at home.
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Often the flux that is present in the core of decent solder is enough. But that is still flux. I’ve watched people try to do electronics soldering with plumbing solder with zero flux, and it is… painful to watch, to say the least.
(and Halbj’s soldering looks a lot like he’s using plumbing solder. No offense dude, but wow.)
You need at least SOME flux, be it from a pen, a bottle, or the few percent in flux cored solder.
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Flux cored solder has flux 
You don’t have these issues tho.
If he’s having probs. Flux will help.
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How can I find who package is coming from I got a email today saying that a package from Belgium is coming tomorrow and have no clue what I ordered
wait for the package and open it up 
that’s the 100% guaranteed way
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Is a shortened motor still able to shrug but not spin?
In some kind of locking up.
Theres just a short jerk on one of my motors and then locking up with a slight noise.
Yes, but that’s not an accurate way to tell if you’ve got a short.
Either use a multimeter, or do a hand test.
If you suspect a short, don’t keep trying to use it with the ESC - that’s a great way to damage the ESC.
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