My printer levels before every print so when I try to print on abs slurry it makes the z axis to high and everything’s ends up being a mush
Any hints
Trying to lower z offset now
If you pump it high enough you may get fusion going inside the wheel and get into the negatives Wh/mile
Who needs regen braking anyway
Couple noob questions.
- How do you stop the belt from running off the wheel pulley and rubbing on the tire.
- Is this the correct installation of matrix II trucks and motor mounts? I thought there would be a set screw for the motor mount but it looks like you just use the included screws to pinch into the metal to secure the mount. I did notice a singular hole on the truck but it would only work if I put the mounts inboard.
The first picture looks like a bad alignment issue, follow the steps of this post from the esk8 master @b264 and you’ll probably be alright.
I don’t know about matrix trucks so maybe someone can answer your other question
@b264 shortened my phase wires and honestly the soldering job was about as bad as it gets
I’m aweful at soldering
What do you recommend I do
If the joints were really ugly but I pulled on them hard and they didn’t come apart does that mean that they are ok?
Thanks
What’s a good way to check your overall mileage on a board? Is this recorded somewhere?
Not unless you have some telemetry on the board such as a metr or davega
Or using apps like Strava and recording every ride.
I would argue that it doesn’t because in this situation the electronics of the other ESC are still fine, you just have to re-solder a joint.
And yes I am, but it only has one power connector because it’s a dual esc. On my old board with Focboxes it has a parallel connector with full size connectors on it. My point was if you are cramped for space you could reduce required space by just using the wires.
The Ackmaniac ESC app has a function that just doubles values since they will be basically the same from each VESC
Alternatively, the other option is CAN, which is super easy on dual escs since it’s usually internally connected. On separate ones, it can be problematic on older hardware versions where the CAN chip was less robust.
True if you use the new firmware. On my builds I’m still using trust 3.62 firmware. I had issues with fw5
Anyone know if yanking a solder joint is an ok test to see strength
The joints look awful but have like 50grams of solder within them
Post a photo and let us gander…
Been shrink wrapped so got no photo
But believe me they look awful
yee
I think if you can get a good physical connection with those thicc wires either will be fine, but i can never get those to look nice so i’ve always made direct connections. If you choose this route, make sure you space the ESC ends a little bit so you can actually plug them in lol learn from my mistakes
It doesn’t mean they are okay, but it does mean that they aren’t not okay.
Passing that test is a good sign.
The fastest way with no hardware or bluetooth, is with a smartphone app called Relive.
In the future maybe look into metr.