i guess if there’s no difference, ill go with the one in video. thanks
Yes and no. I find the larger motors work much, much better on HFI and this can increase reliability if it means you can leave all the sensor wires disconnected. A tuned HFI setup seems to be drastically affected by temperature — when the motor heats up, the tuning goes out the window. A bigger motor heats up less and stays in tune.
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That being said, on a dual drive, 6355 is plenty of power for a street board, even for fat people and large hills, and it’s a lot lighter than dual 6374 or bigger.
But… when those dual 6355 heat up, don’t expect HFI (start-from-stop) to work very well at all.
On a single drive, go as big as possible, 6380+
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Hey guys!
I was wondering if anyone would be able to get some basic dimensions on a surf-rodz rkp baseplate.
I am getting a eboosted sportster enclosure and I am looking at the mkiii.
On the website it states that the surfrodz are confirmed to work, so I figured if the caliber ii trucks are of the same baseplate length or smaller I should not have an issue.
Or if you have or have tried a mkiii enclosure with caliber ii or clones that information would be great too
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I don’t have one of those, nor do I have enough information to know the answer — but I’d personally be much more worried about the proximity here than that capacitor bridge.
If that bridge is wrong, you’ll know right away and it won’t ever work. (Only a financial loss)
If that solder blob is too close to the FET pins, it could work for long enough to get into a high-speed braking situation, then blow up. Which is far worse. (Possible bodily injury)
But it may not be too close. Without this in my hand, and without the files for the PCB design, it’s real hard for me to say.
First time you plug it in, maybe do it through a fuse. And/or check continuity with a multimeter on the ESC+ and ESC- wires.
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I soldered my phase wires to long
I hate soldering
What is the easiest way to shorten them and keep them out the way of motors and gravel
Also looking for a custom cnc job without blowing my bank
Any suggestions
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cut and resolder
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Make a loop and ziptie them.
I don’t recommend it, but it’s the answer to the question.
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I found that making your own parallel connector is usually the best option. The parallel splitters i’ve gotten are nothing but cold joints (you can always fix this, but why buy if they’re making you do it?). Plus it shortens your battery wire runs.
Not to mention cleaner cable management
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The alternate option is to forego the connectors in interest of space, however, it makes it hard if one of them has a problem haha
I second this
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Hi guys, I am waiting for two tb6 vescs to get delivered to make my first dual drive board! I have been reading and cant decide if I want to use split PPM to connect the two or CANBUS. From experience, which is better? Also, I have two hm10 bluetooth modules, Is there a way to use both modules to get telemetry from both ESCS ?
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Connected via Canbus is generally the way to go. Some people dont like it, but it is the most widely used method. I advise to avoid split PWM unless you have a good reason why you have to use it.
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Anyone knows this? Im trying to avoid buying their 12fifties truck, its too wide for my liking.
by connector-less do you mean the cable-less option (in the vid I linked)?not sure I follow what you mean
I mean you could just solder the esc cables together and put one connector on it
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I didn’t even know you could buy them, I was gonna just make one. The question is whether i make a cabled one or one with joints directly between male and female parts of connector
Ah right, yeah of course I didn’t think I’d think of that. And yeah I follow you, it kinda defeats the purpose of having 2 separate esc’s bc if one goes then it’s more hassle. Iirc you’re running/have run the makers x ones, which method did u use?
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I didn’t even know you could buy them readymade