Yep, this. It sounds like your battery is the bottleneck in your build right now. If you want more torque or braking force, get a better battery that can handle more current.
If you need the lowest cost solution, then a higher gear ratio will give you more torque and braking force (as long as your belts dont slip) without having to change any settings or stress your battery. However, you will be sacrificing top speed.
I think top speed was already 20mph / 32.2km/h if I recall. Not a lot of room to go down
Hey guys, I’m starting a new build with a 12s4p battery and two tb6 vescs. They don’t happen to have a build in switch do they? I think I’m gonna have to buy a external anti spark switch
No, they do not. Not many ESCs do.
Unless you have a good reason not to, I’d suggest you go with the simplest (and cheapest, and most robust) solution: An XT-90S loop key.
Nope, make a loopkey if you wanna save some money. I’m not sure what reliable antisparks are out there atm. I’ve been out of the game for awhile. I’ve also seen my fair share of antisparks causing accidents mid ride. But I’m taking a chance on a fatboy antispark atm. We’ll see how that turns out.
Easiest, most reliable, cheapest. Only downside is they are ugly, but even that can be mitigated.
I’ve got this old one I made, but it still sparks when I plug it in. Don’t worry about hurting my feelings, criticize it all you want! Yea that’s hot glue
It sparks because you’re using an xt90 instead of an xt90s. The one with green on it is an xt90s.
This is almost always caused by this
What @RedBaron said. You’re using a regular XT90 connector where you should be using an XT90-S (the green one), and using an XT90-S where you should be using a regular one. (Assuming you had your battery plugged into the bottom one, your ESC in the top, and were using the middle one for your loop key)
And you’ve also got the genders wrong. The green XT90-S female (bottom on in that photo) should be the removable “key” part, not mounted in your board. That way, if the resistor in it (the part that makes it “antispark”) ever gives out, you can just replace the key, rather than tearing into your board’s wiring.
Ah I see thank you guys!
Happy to help. Getting that last few percent from “it works but…” to “finished” is always the challenge, at least for me.
Yep. That last few percent is most of the effort.
10% of the work takes 90% of the time
Ain’t that the truth. My bike had been “It works but…” for like a year now. I just haven’t made the time (or workbench space) to tear it down fully to do the final round of make-it-pretty on the wiring before I button it up with some silicone.
My latest method to deal with this is to put it all together quick with no loctite or water resist or look nice efforts at all.
Ride it once or twice for at most a kilometer each, tweaking things.
Then take it all apart and rebuild it with Loctite and water resist and Look Nice 
everywhere.
If you ignore the part in italics you’ll likely pay a large price
If it’s an ebike you can get away with a lot more
Everything you said here is correct, and I agree, other than this. The gender of the XT connectors is based on the actual metal contacts inside the housings, not the housings themselves.
The top connector in his picture is the only male connector (the metal contacts are male bullets) and the bottom connector is female (the metal contacts are female bullets, which the male pins slide into). Its kind of confusing considering the female housing slides into the male housing, but there you go.
*Slides glasses up nose*
i plan to build NESE 5*2s2p with p42a.
or just buy a big motor 63100
And this is why I shouldn’t be posting on limited sleep.
A bigger motor won’t help you with your problem.
