I bought this cheap ass 2 star rated soldering station 4 years back, and genuine Hakko tips from here . Amongst other a bunch of Skews (the tip type) on the site I got HT18-C05 (which replaces the 900M tips of old Hakko tips…they fit the station). It’s taken me through 3 mech keyboard builds, 1 esk8 and a few other projects. It’s been great tbh for something so cheap.
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Does anyone know the approximate wire length between enclosures for an MBS MTB? My board isn’t due to arrive for at least another two weeks, so I can’t measure it, but I would like to get all the other components in the meantime, and I’m thinking whether soldering two pigtailed connectors together will be long enough.
What size are these motor bearings?
This is an older flipsky 6384 motor.
Dims look like 10 x 19 x 5
Can someone verify please?
Yes.
Google “t12 soldering station” and you’ll find a shitload of them.
I intend to replace my current station with this one when mine gives up. (Assuming nothing better comes up before then.) There are even cheaper ones, that often require an external 24v power supply, but this one has the ability to run from 120/240vac, as well as 24vdc, which is suuuper useful for being able to solder when you don’t have reliable power.
There should be a number marked on the bearing. That number is the size code.
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6800
Maybe correct size 
but I don’t know why it says “61800”
You want 6800ZZ for dual metal shields or for more robustness 6800-RS for a rubber shield (Like Bones Reds) or preferably 6800-2RS for dual rubber shields
Also take a look in here
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So I got sent 12AWG instead of 10AWG. Is that ok for battery leads and loopkey, or should I wait for 10? Running 12S, hoping to use 50-100A but need to test and experiment to find out.
12 should be fine. If it gets too toasty, then swap to 10.
I think there is a short between the red cable and one of the capacitors… I don’t know if that should be there (probably no)
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SOLVED
I re-made the connections between 12awg wires and xt60, didn’t work at first so I screamed a lot of bad words (those type of real bad words that we have only in Italy),chilled one hour and then tried again and now current flows and the esc connects to the Vesc tool app!
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Awesome!! I’m pretty sure that we have pretty similar swear words here in Spain lol. Correct me if I’m wrong 
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Hey ya’ll just wondering what’s the lowest I can safely discharge a 10s5p 35E pack? Also any idea why it would be draining so quickly? I went on a 5 mile ride on mainly flat terrain, have 7" numies, 2×6374’s. I started the ride at 41.7v ended at 36v(where i have the cutoff start set)
In theory 25V but I would probably stop around 28V.
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2.65V/ cell based on the datasheet, but I’d set soft cutoff at 33V and hard cutoff at 29V just to be safe
This also helps prolong the lifetime of the cells
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On Moons site he lists a hanger option for his new drives; “boardnamics” truck profile. Does that include 3ds fatboy?
Would have to check with the folks involved. @Boardnamics and @3DServisas, do yall know if your hanger profile is the same? @moon maybe you could clear it up?
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It can’t confirm or deny tbh
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Trying to figure something out. I’m running unity with sk8 6374s 192kv, 2 6s 12000mah lipos, and a unity.
Board is feeling is feeling real sluggish accelration wise. What can I do to fix this in vesc tool?
Motor Amps is your low end torque, Battery Amps is your high end torque. Depending on your gear ratios and wheel size, you might not be able to make enough torque without cooking your motors or VESC. Do your motors/VESC get really hot during normal use?