Wow that’s a really good price
For me it’s like £50 from U.K.
Can’t be bothered returning mine though
Wow that’s a really good price
For me it’s like £50 from U.K.
Can’t be bothered returning mine though
Only thing I want there is the power cable
If you have a 6s lipo you could use that. (Remember to not use it fully charged!!)
Obviously lower S counts work too
Don’t have a limo and don’t really need a soldering iron on the go
So ok with a laptop charger
Got one thing I can use atm but it’s the plug for my bike turbo trainer
Yeah, pretty much, within reason.
Just use a fuse rated for 1.25x to 2.5x the amount of current you’ll charge at. 7.5A is a great fuse to use for 4A charging
I personally use these
You should never have to replace it.
But if you do, you’ll be happy seeking one out — because you’ll have a not-junked battery and a not-burnt house.
If you’re in the US, I will send you one for cheap
Basically as a favor
Someone posted an email response from Timo saying that DHL screwed him and most of his stuff is still in transit. That was like a week ago.
That’s very strange. My version of the app doesnt do that. Try increasing the Overvoltage cutoff and see if that allows you to raise the overvoltage release. For example, set overvoltage cutoff to 4.22 and see if that allows you to set the release to 4.17, etc.
Here’s a list, its a wiki so anyone can add whatever they want. Plus, since this is DIY getting verifiable and accurate data about a lot of this is difficult. So color me skeptical about some of these numbers haha. But here it is.
Yah you have to set the overvoltage too. It’s weird and feels wrong because sometimes a cell will actually peak at 4.22
Pretty sure I do; I tapped on the ‘polymer normal’ then the check buttons
It does (4.169999…) and doesn’t crash the app lol
Would that be too risky to leave the cutoff that high though?
Cutoff should be at 4.25v and release at 4.15v
I’ll change those settings, thanks!
No, its not really going to hurt anything for your cells to be a few mV above 4.2V for a half second, since as soon as the BMS cuts charging, your cells will equalize below 4.2V.
Really though, pushing to get to 4.2V per cell is not really worth it. Its slightly worse for cell life and is not going to get you any measureable increase in range or top speed, since as soon as you draw current from those cells the voltage will drop. Look at a discharge graph for your cells and you will see how little capacity there actually is in the first .1 or .2 volts.
looking for a link (uk preferably) to some good (cheaper the better) solder and flux
thanks
not sure which are good and which arent
this
so much this
And even for LiFePO4, and for li-ion too, they drop instantly from 4.2 (or 3.65), it’s almost a vertical line at that point. You’re gaining nearly nothing in the top end of the charge. Look at the number of amp-hours in the first 0.2V, it’s so small it’s basically 0.000Ah
So you’re not really gaining anything anyway by pushing that 4.2 as @BenjaminF said
btw thanks @Battery_Mooch for these data
Does anyone know about sounds from hobbywing esc?
I hear sounds like from a computer from the esc on a friends board
The esc runs prefect so far, just curious about the sound.
@b264 what do you have your battery cutoffs set to for your lifepo4 packs? I just finished my friend’s 12s6p one, and I haven’t set the vesc cutoff voltages yet.
need to know which board it is to know which hobbywing esc its inside, but the latest one does have sound when doing motor detection.