i used the b2 for xt90 and it was fine, i’d say yes.
1 Like
I generally use the same awg of wire that’s already being used on the motor, just for my sanity and also to prevent any weird things that might happen if you pull too many amps and you’re using a higher awg
1 Like
what if your motor phase-wires are lower AWG than your ESC ones? (my esc is 12, and i can see thet motor ones are slimmer, maybe 10 or 8)
1 Like
Not entirely sure of all the implications, but I would just go with what your motors are currently using, but also for future reference, wire AWG scales in reverse so 14 is smaller than 8.
1 Like
i did not know that!
makes sense to stick to the awg cable size if extending it.
thank u =D
1 Like
no problem man, be sure to check out this thread in case you haven’t seen or read it before:
4 Likes
will have a look for sure.
ive built a few mech keyboards in the past, just never an e-board.
cheers
1 Like
ahhhh a fellow keyboard nerd, nice
4 Likes
esk8 has taken a over a bit, but yeah ive gmk group buy stuff still pending =D
i wonder what the overlap is here with keeb nerds
1 Like
I swear by Wera, specifically the ones that say “Hex-Plus”. They’re actually not quite a perfect hexagon, instead they’ve got hollow faces.
That helps to keep from rounding out and stripping the heads of screws.
I’ve never broken a Wera key, and the only time I’ve stripped a screw head using them was under the worst possible conditions: Soft stainless steel screw, with an undersized drive (cap head screws have bigger hex drives compared to button or flat head screws of the same size), and at a funny angle where I don’t think I had 100% engagement.
No matter what brand you buy, you get what you pay for (within reason). The $5 Chinese hex key sets are absolute garbage - Either made of soft cheese posing as steel, or steel that has been hardened to the point that it’s practically glass, and will shatter the moment you look at it funny.
Buy one good set first, rather than three progressively less-shitty ones until you reach the same level.
6 Likes
On a side note - As long as you have room to physically get the tip and solder to wherever it needs to go, you can get away with a grossly oversized tip.
IMO it’s easier to use a tip that’s too large than too small, because if your tip is too small you just won’t be able to get enough heat into your part.
I’ve soldered 0603 and 0402 components with a 4.5mm chisel before. It’s a pain, and you’ve got to have a steady hand and be extra careful, but it’s doable.
On the other hand, I could not imagine being able to successfully solder 10awg into an XT90 with a B2 without wicking a ton of solder up the wire and stiffening it, and/or melting the plastic of the connector.
3 Likes
Helping hands are great.
I personally recommend the type that is made from jointed plastic (usually looks like a blue/orange tentacle), rather than the ones that are balls and sticks. I had a ball and stick one, and it just chewed itself to pieces every time you tried to reposition the arms and lock them back down in a new position.
Granted that was years ago and there may well be better ones now, but that bad first impression still sticks with me.
I may build myself a proper oversized heavy duty ball-and-stick helping hand for welding some day, with hardened steel balls and nice hardware though. Hmm, that bears merit.
1 Like
Can confirm. I use a 260W Weller soldering gun for 90% of my soldering, including on XT90’s and MR60’s. Being able to dump heat into a joint is way too convenient to give up for a more controllable tip.
2 Likes
It’s fine
1 Like
What’s the difference between a BN220 and caliber II hangers? Anyone has the profile measures?
They’re the same profile only my hangers are extremely consistent. My hanger is technically “smaller” in that the arch actually has a bit less material because the arch is a straight line where a round surface would be, if that makes sense.
2 Likes
Caliber II are cast, and 184mm long. You’d be better off comparing a BN184 hanger and a Caliber II hanger. They’re the same – basically – except:
- BN184 is machined from billet, not cast, and it’s stronger
- BN184 has very long axle for ease of using pulleys with bearings
- BN184 are always the same size and fit mounts very well, Caliber II can be +/- 2mm in all dimensions
- BN184 have a slight chamfered look to them, and Caliber II have a more rounded bottom
- BN184 are designed for esk8 first
and the BN220 is the same thing except 36mm longer
8 Likes
this
Just get Wera Hex Plus the first time around. Don’t repeat the mistakes others have made before you.
If you don’t get those, then at least get ones that cost the same or more. Preferably not perfect hexagon, but the other shape
3 Likes
There are more in here than is apparent at first
5 Likes
Already reserved a gmmk pro and panda switches 
3 Likes