This is true, however, I have noticed it’s almost always M4x8mm bolts work the best to mount most motors
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Cheers man, I’m fairly light so some 3d printed hubs would probably do me fine. Will get in touch with that guy, I don’t have a printer, so hopefully he (or someone here) can do me a solid
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There are lots of websites that will link you up to someone with a 3d printer for $ if you cant find anyone on here.
I would hop on over to one of the numerous 3d printing topics on here and see if there are any folks in the UK who could help you out. I’m sure if you offered to buy them a roll of filament and have it shipped to their address, someone would be more than willing 
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yeah, uk would be better. LD shipping is always unwanted. dont suppose you know if these are the files?
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Those look promising
I have never used them, so I would wait to see if @mishrasubhransu will chime in with his wisdom on this topic 
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just found the page here, seems i can get kegal prints, wtf!?!? 1000% more interested as I can swap out with the new BN’s GD kegal set.
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Now you’re thinking with portals
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Geo_E_FTW™
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Use low Kv motors if doing that.
Like 130Kv instead of 190Kv, et cetera
That board seems super sketch. Top mount pneumatics will be weird like that, plus the deck is not exactly made with obstacles in mind. Mountainboards self balance and handle those roads much better, but still expect to do like 15km/hr on anything but wheelbarrow wheels
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Just set duty cycle current limit start at 85% and don’t worry about anything else. Also traction control is really nice to have and won’t let motor rpm’s pass each other by too much
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5p 40T configuration can pull 125A continuous without a sweat. Are you sure you want to limit yourself to a non-configurable blackbox esc? Scout this forum and look for something that can to 100A/side as a minimum. Dv6 from makerx and trampa’s vesc 6 are 2 solid candidates
M4x8mm with shallow socket cap is what you want
Edit: make sure they are with 3mm allen key hole. 2.5mm will strip immediately
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Why is aliexpress website in german every time i open it and how do i fix this
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Time to learn german i guess.
Go to account in the bottom right, the second last option are the settings where you can change the language.
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Have no idea, half of the time mine opens into French
Log in. Easiest and best way to fix it. All the other ways are janky and don’t work half the time. You will learn the German words for logging in, username, and password 
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Worked! It’s the 3 dot menu in the top corner then “konto” for me though. Thanks
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How hard is it to remove green loctite?
I have some bearings with weird tolerances for bergs hubs and i’m thinking to glue them in there to stop them rattling, but as all bearings are basically disposable, i want to know i can pull them out as well
Thanks for the suggestions. What are your thoughts on Focbox unity and Flipsky’s 6.6+ one?
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Focbox is outdated and sold by someone who screwed over a lot of people. You’re literally buying the controller that’s supposed to be in someone’s paid and not sent board. Flipshit has 0 quality control and sub zero customer service. I would only recommend if you can buy from amazon as they back their sales without the actual seller having a say
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