6 million views lol!
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There is a bunch of good info on inserts here: Threaded Inserts: Which ones are best? And why?
Personally I have had issues with the brass inserts breaking during installation and after rough rides. However, I have been very happy with the stainless steel m4 inserts I picked up from Ali Express.
The trick to getting them installed is using two nuts on a bolt set at the right depth and tightened against each other, then you screw the insert on the end with the notch side down. Drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the insert, add epoxy or glue if necessary and after you install the insert, you can use pliers and a wrench or two sets of needle nose to loosen the nuts. The bolt and nuts come right out and and the inserts remain in the deck. Remember if you use adhesive to keep it out of the inner threads with a tiny bit of painter’s tape or something similar.
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tbh im pretty sure i saw that thread 6 months or so ago when i ordered these threaded inserts. I wouldnt have know anything at that point so the fact i have a set of means i must have referred to some guide on here. Installing them is another matter altogether, on the link Sender says you only need a small ammount of glue/epoxy on them for them to be firmly stuck. my remaining question is how many, ive seen boards with very few others w/ many. I guess more is better(?) - as it will distribute the negative effects of the vibrations.
Between this
And this
Assuming both for m5, the first one grabs on more wood than the second type. That’s all i mean by “hooks”
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ah ok, understood. ive got the second set, think ill just stick with them
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I prefer these coarse threaded ones logically to hard wood, fine threaded inserts.
I have 4 holding my junk mtb enclosure on and that thing goes to the bike park with me and gets smashed around. Never had to tighten a single bolt.
Epoxy and loose threads for the win!
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EZ LOK does actually make (stainless) steel knife thread inserts:
These would probably be a little stronger than the brass ones, and they still have the long coarse threads for cutting into wood (“knife threads” as they call them).
That said, the only time I have “broken” a brass insert was by using the “optional drive tool” that interacts with the slot on the insert. The “breaking” that occured was the whole top flange into which that slot is cut stripped off.
My solution was to bin the drive tool and only use a bolt with two nuts on it now. Never had a problem since.
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Hi, always wondered whether there is any tool to strip the wire in the middle of the cable like how it’s done here:
Is it normal for belts to break when used in wet conditions? I went for a ride right after it rained, and my belts both broke after 2 miles. They were about 150 miles into their life and on my Trampa.
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Probably caught other shit in them and they tensioned until they snapped. That or they really don’t like cold weather.
Belts don’t typically snap because of water alone
I feel like the stainless steel ones will bind up
I might try these 
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Are there any good reasons for using inserts over bolt-through besides stealth or looks?
I don’t think so. I’m pretty sure the bolt through would probably hold up better.
Though if you were choosing to put a countersunk screw through the top of the deck to a nut on the enclosure, I would instead use a well nut and socket screws instead.
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Well nuts would be perfect, didn’t think about that. This is what I have right now.
Screw head / deck / embedded nut / foam / enclosure / rubber washer / fender washer / lock nut
I used a drill bit collet to counterbore for the nut in the deck.
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Hey guys, quick question. So I got myself a hoyt remote for my board and unfortunately its too late to ask this since I already took a hard spill but, I noticed that when you press the M on it, it vibrates to indicate speed modes, but when I did that to see if it does anything for DIY boards, I fell hard due to a random disconnection on the third mode. I tested it slower this time and found out it just automatically engages the brakes.
Long story short, is the M button 100% useless on a DIY board? Asking those with a hoyt remote. Its kinda too late after falling hard.
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No, the M button changes the range of the PWM signal that the remote sends to the receiver. So, for example, lets say that in speed mode 3 the full range of PWM signal is 1.8ms (full throttle) to 0.6ms (full brake). When you click to speed mode two, the remote only sends 1.5ms of signal to the receiver.
In the setup guide it says that you should always do your remote setup on the vesc tool with the remote in the highest speed mode, so that your vesc knows what the highest limit of your PWM signal can be.
What I suspect happened is that you ran the input setup wizard with the remote in one of the lower speed modes, and so when you clicked to the highest mode, the vesc doesnt know what to do with the value it is seeing from the remote.
If any of that doesnt make sense, let me know and I will try to explain it better to you.
Perhaps @JJHoyt could chime in on this.
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I never got the set up guide… I never knew you had to have it on M 3 vibrations as you set it up.
Try re-running the input setup wizard in the VESC tool with the remote on speed mode 3 and see if that solves the problem 
Sorry to hear about your crash, that always sucks. Especially when its from a hardware issue that you didnt know to worry about. My last (and worst) crash happened at 34mph because I didnt know about the temp. sensor bug in fw4.1.
Thanks for the help fam. Dang if only I knew… I’d probably wouldn’t have holes in my hands from falling onto pebbles. Oh well, glad I asked before it was too late. It was me doing a speed test…
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