Pretty sure brass is softer, so yeah could strip more easily. I guess that’s where brass can go wrong. Guessing steel is bad because it can strip the wood, ie too hard…just spitballing at this point, haven’t used either yet
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My experience isn’t the metal stripping, it’s the wood holding it stripping out, even with epoxy. So the entire fastener comes out with a slug of wood/composite around it.
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sadly i can’t use those, TB40 doesn’t have through hole…not gonna drill through it either (if im correct about the flanged part should be top deck side?)
I will have to search a bit more and see if anything comes up
Just curious, how did this happen that the insert was ripped out?
You will only ever pull high battery amps at high speed while still accelerating. It takes me about 40 battery amps to maintain a speed of 50km/hr. I’m limited at 60 battery amps on my 18650 pack now so it’s just enough to handle reaching that speed in a reasonable time.
You can absolutely run 1:1 battery and motor amps even for 6380’s. It will sag when it’s too high anyway and reach max duty cycle, then as amps get lower gain more total duty (voltage) and accelerate more and so on until it balances out.
About inserts, brass is so soft you can fully screw in your bolt on the wrong threads and it won’t oppose much. It also strips really, really easily, especially if you use any kind of pre-compression to seal the enclosure and need to check inside often. Use steel with beefier “hooks” on the outside
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Riding the skateboard and extreme vibrations from going over cracks and whatnot
Never underestimate what repeated vibrations can cause
Allow this dude to demonstrate. One knock wouldn’t hurt this machine at all. But, ten thousand knocks? Feast your eyes upon it
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damn, that washer just won’t stop spinning 
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But it is only a scratch
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6 million views lol!
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There is a bunch of good info on inserts here: Threaded Inserts: Which ones are best? And why?
Personally I have had issues with the brass inserts breaking during installation and after rough rides. However, I have been very happy with the stainless steel m4 inserts I picked up from Ali Express.
The trick to getting them installed is using two nuts on a bolt set at the right depth and tightened against each other, then you screw the insert on the end with the notch side down. Drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the insert, add epoxy or glue if necessary and after you install the insert, you can use pliers and a wrench or two sets of needle nose to loosen the nuts. The bolt and nuts come right out and and the inserts remain in the deck. Remember if you use adhesive to keep it out of the inner threads with a tiny bit of painter’s tape or something similar.
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tbh im pretty sure i saw that thread 6 months or so ago when i ordered these threaded inserts. I wouldnt have know anything at that point so the fact i have a set of means i must have referred to some guide on here. Installing them is another matter altogether, on the link Sender says you only need a small ammount of glue/epoxy on them for them to be firmly stuck. my remaining question is how many, ive seen boards with very few others w/ many. I guess more is better(?) - as it will distribute the negative effects of the vibrations.
Between this
And this
Assuming both for m5, the first one grabs on more wood than the second type. That’s all i mean by “hooks”
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ah ok, understood. ive got the second set, think ill just stick with them
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I prefer these coarse threaded ones logically to hard wood, fine threaded inserts.
I have 4 holding my junk mtb enclosure on and that thing goes to the bike park with me and gets smashed around. Never had to tighten a single bolt.
Epoxy and loose threads for the win!
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EZ LOK does actually make (stainless) steel knife thread inserts:
These would probably be a little stronger than the brass ones, and they still have the long coarse threads for cutting into wood (“knife threads” as they call them).
That said, the only time I have “broken” a brass insert was by using the “optional drive tool” that interacts with the slot on the insert. The “breaking” that occured was the whole top flange into which that slot is cut stripped off.
My solution was to bin the drive tool and only use a bolt with two nuts on it now. Never had a problem since.
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Hi, always wondered whether there is any tool to strip the wire in the middle of the cable like how it’s done here:
Is it normal for belts to break when used in wet conditions? I went for a ride right after it rained, and my belts both broke after 2 miles. They were about 150 miles into their life and on my Trampa.
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Probably caught other shit in them and they tensioned until they snapped. That or they really don’t like cold weather.
Belts don’t typically snap because of water alone