I have Boardnamics idler mounts and I really like using them over moving the motor around, only catch is you need a beefy bolt to keep the idler from deflecting
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If I had a bunch of motors I would test this. But if anyone reads this later and wants to test equivalent motors.
I would weigh them. My thought is that similar principles apply to motors as to speakers. It’s.just wires and magnets right?
In speaker.world, the mass of a driver will often correlate to the wattage of the speaker. There is of course more to it, that’s why I say correlation not causation. But my bet is that’s enough to do a sort of curve fitting and you’d find that of two equivalent motors weigh slightly different, then the larger mass one will outperform the other, in terms of measureable wattage.
I’d wager the increase mass comes from increase iron mass which increases magnetic flux capacity. As well as more heat sponging.
This is just a theory though. Wild guesses really
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Yeah, that’s a big reason I’d like to have them. Generally whenever I have to retention my belt I just use a clamp with rubberized contact surface with one side against the guard/spacer bars and the other on the motor. This all done flush against the mounts so I don’t have any weird leverage.
@hummieee @approachinglogic @Agressivstreetlamp
How does air gap come into play?
Wouldn’t 2 absolutely identical motors with different air gaps feel very different in “punch”?
@approachinglogic
The weight would be a good indicator of how much copper is in it but with so much of the motor weight coming from other parts the electrical resistance is ideal for revealing the copper content. Kv or kt and electrical resistance coupled together tell the motor Km which allows all electrical motors to be compared.
But doesn’t tell why one motor labeled the same kv would have more kick. Maybe the kv isn’t accurate and I know there’s a lot of that around.
Be cool if someone did a spread sheet with the km of all the motor we use. I don’t know the math but all u need is the resistance and kv or kt. No one ever uses expensive motor brands like hacker and scorpion but like to get them in it too. Also want to do it because I’m sure the motors I make would win because I can get a lot more copper in using thick wires and doing it neatly instead of the hornet nest everywhere else makes. And add in a really tight air gap and curved magnets and can get even lower kv that way without the increased resistance. And a hugely thick (3mm) mild steel behind the magnets really is a huge advantage in containing the magnetic field and dropping the kv. With everyone using essentially airplane motors intended to be light they use maybe only 1mm of back iron and you can stick all kinds of stuff to the outside revealing how much magnetic field is lost. Tragic. If someone pressed a mild steel tube around the outside I bet it would drop the kv substantially
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@hummieee @tipsy @Agressivstreetlamp
Imo weight is too unreliable to make the comparisons we’re talking about, different shafts, motor cans and all sorts! Air gap is probably just another factor to consider.
@hummieee do you make motors other than your DDs??
@Pedrodemio Set up a thread directly for the discussions we’re having, a compendium of motor testing (linked). I will try to perform the same so we can add more to the mix.
It’d be immensely useful to create a direct comparisons of motors.
I was definitely just suggesting a pi*thumb sort of indicator lol.
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I don’t. Allllmost did then bailed
Fat back iron and big bearings supporting both sides. 63mm stator.
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Come on hummieee we all want them 
(I know you’re probably way to busy with life and hubs! )
They can take the crown for pound for pound power in Esk8!
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I think it depends on how much I have to disassemble to be able to put it all back together, and how many different parts go in.
Just in general, i go off of how much work goes in. Straight deck swap? Probably dont count it. Stain, epoxy, frit the new deck, new enclosure, re-built battery? I count it.
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the motor actually i think the stator was from an 80mm motor and pretty long. pretty hollowed out inside. i never modeled it to see how it would do but im sure good enough. magnetic modeling always took me forever. if you want one it could make a great bike middrive and that was my plan but need tons of laying around time and dropped it all, but they would be like 400$ in parts. maybe 500. but if you got one and paid me 200$ to build it id get two sets. putting a bike together with a hub motor is so much easier so forgot the mid drive
Almost done then make skate motors non stop. The other parts are finally coming together so have to make them.
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Are you technically supposed to run motor detection with or without the pulleys attached?
Hey !
When i’m running two single ESCs connected by can and one of them has BLE, the data that i’m reading in the VESC app are for only the BLE connected ESC or for both ?
oh my gosh
so turns out my plug connecting the battery to my bms became disconnected lol and now it charges. yayyyy
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As sick as that would be. I’m not building an ebike and I’ve just bought motors hence the comparison questions 
but if you ever make Esk8 cans in the future. My cash is yours, 
Also that bike looks sssiiicckkkkk
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Why isn’t everyone doing thick wire? Can only be done by hand?
I want hummie outrunners, we need more high end motor options!
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The one with the BLE by default, you switch to the other one with ‘CAN Forwarding’ -> ‘Activate’
The only exceptions that work on both ESCs are motor detection wizard (FOC) and profiles.
Thoughts on XT90S connectors vs. regular XT90? I’m not sure whether the extra antispark capability is necessary because it wouldn’t be disconnected in a live circuit due to the AS switch and loop key, and it’s more than twice as expensive than regular XT90. Or does it provide an extra safety margin and it doesn’t hurt to have it?
Whenever you are connecting power to your ESC’s, there should be an antispark in the circuit so that you dont hurt your ESC’s. Whether that is an XT90S, or a built in antispark on the ESC, or an in-line antispark, whatever. But there’s got to be something
easier to do multiple strands in parallel with a machine. it is better by hand for a lot of reasons. Often people will rewind motors on rcgroups and it goes well.
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