Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

So if I replace esc with dual vescs and a remote to suit. Will I still just charge it through evolve port or will I need to add something in with the new vescs

1 Like

Depends. Does the bms communicate with the controller in any way?
If no, you can just do the swap to vescs. If they communicate and refuse to run, you need a bms as well. Decent one is daly bms. Should be about $11+ shipping from the right people

1 Like

This is something I’ve always wondered and I’m currently giving my board a TLC so I thought if I would ever do this, now is the time. I’m looking to run a dual motor semi-offroading board. By semi, I mean like riding over grass. I know people always run rear wheel drive, but what about criss cross. Like the back left wheel and the front right wheel? I’m assuming that because no one ever does it there’s a reason why it’s ignored

1 Like

It’s better to have 2 motors on each side of a hanger to avoid torque steering. By putting 1 on each truck you basically double the issue (also wiring becomes sketchy)

1 Like

What is the latest, freshest, straight out of vedder’s keyboard version of vesc tool and where does one obtain a compiled version of it?

Source code is here: https://github.com/vedderb/vesc_tool

Precompiled download available here: https://vesc-project.com/vesc_tool

Older precompiled versions available here: Precompiled VESC Tool Archive

Ohhhh, that makes sense

1 Like

Alla jacta est , ordered them :slight_smile:

1 Like

Where’s the betas though? That’s what i want

The beta stuff is over on the vesc forum: https://vesc-project.com/forum/15

2 Likes

Anybody have recommendations for a Smart BMS? I might be looking to upgrade, depending on price

why not ditch the bms altogether on the battery pack and go with a good balance charger. this way you’re not at the mercy of your bms system when it fails while you’re riding.

2 Likes

Yeah, but I don’t want to spend $150+ when I just have the 1 board. From what I’ve seen, a smart BMS would be cheaper for me. I’d be running it in charge only like my current BMS, so I don’t really see how it would “fail” me during riding, unless you think it might short out on me? (You’re starting to make me worry about my current setup :sweat_smile:)

2 Likes

ok i figured you might have built your battery pack with bms system

rule #1: if it ain’t broken, don’t fix it!

if you what that video, there are many other good reasons for building a battery pack without a bms. i built my own 12sp6 18650 battery pack this way.

but if you bought a board already pre-made, i wouldn’t mess with it if it’s working. but if did have to re-build your battery back this might a better way to go about it

this additional video might also help explain how to wire balance leads and balance change, if not for more general knowledge.

Yeah, my current pack is 2 6S hobby packs in series with the balance leads soldered onto the balance connectors for a d140 BMS (12S). Every couple of rides or so I go through and check the individual battery voltages to make sure I’m not going to die on the next outing :slightly_smiling_face: (Maybe a little excessive, but it makes me feel safe). I want to streamline that and just pull it up on my phone or computer instead of taking apart my whole enclosure, you know?

1 Like

why not cut a hole for the balance connectors and glue mount them for external access and check them without having too take apart your board. just make sure you cover up the connectors nice.

i have a battery box, so it’s pretty easy for me to open up and balance charge and know each time all my cells are healthy and balanced.

the plus side of not using a bms, is your battery pack will last a longer time, but then again i am taking about a battery pack built using cells and not a lipo pack.

Right, but once I go through all the effort to change the enclose and protect those leads, wouldn’t it just be easier to swap my bms (especially since I’m assuming you mean I’d be using a balance charger)?

2 Likes

Ltt smart bms is the smart bms to get
Buy here
@devguy dude/dudette just wants a smart bms. Why so hard on having wires stick out of the board? Some just want to seal it up and never worry about what happens inside again

1 Like

like i said don’t fix it, if it’s not broken.

i was just suggesting if you’re paranoid and checking your pack by opening it all the time, then just make the connectors accessible without taking apart the battery case.

just stick with your current setup, upgrading a bms system is really not going to make much of a difference imho. it’s a waste of time and money.

well she said she is having to check every few ride, so i assume this requires opening up the case a lot of times? so my suggestion make sense, if you want less work and wear and tear.

1 Like